CHARLESTON, Through the eyes of a Yank
Written: Feb 25 '04 (Updated Jan 10 '07)
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Pros: It's a very confined city and easily navigated.
Cons: From what I hear it can get hot, very very hot.
The Bottom Line: This is a great getaway city where you can easily spend a couple of weeks searching out things to do.
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| popsrocks's Full Review: Charleston |
My wife wanted to go away for a week this February. She said, "Let's drive down till it starts to get warmer."
With a little research she decided on Charleston South Carolina. It seemed like a good place to go from what she read. We did get a bit warmer weather. The night we left Long Island NY it was 12 degrees. Two days later the temperature hit 71 in Charleston South Carolina. That was warm enough for us.
The other good thing was that it was a twelve hour car ride. That was quite doable.
HISTORY
Without getting bogged down in it, though I must say I find it extremely interesting, I do want to mention that Charleston is full of history of people and places in US American history.
There are many homes and plantations that are open for tours. Some of these were built before the revolution, thankfully, they made it through the Civil War without being burned to the ground.
Do be sure to spend a little time in the Visitors Center. It's a good one! Upon entering the city you will see many signs directing you there. Many booklets have small maps that will get you around. The city is laid out in a grid and once you have a map it's pretty easy getting around. Be sure to pick up discount booklets and envelopes. We saved a few dollars with them on places we were going to anyway.
In the visitors center we found a deal to see a number of historic homes discounted. This was available in the visitors center only!! It gave a 40% savings over the full price. Even if you only see four of the homes and plantations you still save over full admission. You do need at least two very full days to see them all. We saw them over six days from ticket purchase.
Historic Homes
Some of the homes and plantations we saw on this deal were;
The Aiken-Rhet House $8.00 This home, built in 1818, was the first we saw. It is very close to the visitors center, just a couple of short blocks away. It was a great way to start. Our car was already parked at the visitors center and there really was no reason to move it. the prices were very reasonable.
This home is known as the best intact urban plantation complex in Charleston. We took the self guided tour with headphones. It highlighted the home, the carriage house and the slave quarters.
Edmondston-Alston House $10.00 Built in 1825 this was renovated into the Greek revival style. It is a place where the first shots of the Civil War were directed from. You can see Fort Sumter from the porch, known as a piazza. This is where General P.G.T. Beauregard of the Confederate States Army set sites, through a telescope that is still on display in the house, on Fort Sumter directing the first shots of the war April 12, 1861. It's also noted as a place where General Robert E Lee spent some time during the Civil War.
This grand home has withstood the Civil War, earthquakes and hurricanes.
Nathaniel Russel House $8.00 This home shows the finer lifestyle of the rich. It is magnificently detailed and the decorative stairs are complimented by the antiques throughout the home.
Hayward-Washington House Signer of Declaration of Independence.
Drayton Hall$? This home, on a plantation that is about ten miles out of Charleston, is the oldest plantation home in America. It was built in 1738. It is totally empty and the tour shows in great detail the architecture of the building and tells of the families who lived in it. You can also do some self guided tours on the grounds going down to the river.
There are also special tours that talk about African Americans and their influence in this home over the last 170 years.
Middleton Place $? This plantation that differs from the last one is set up with the oldest landscape gardens in America! The grounds are beautiful. You need at least three hours for this place alone. This is just a few miles from Drayton Hall. There are also live demonstrations of farm life on the plantation. We had a lovely lunch in the old Tea House. More African American details can be learned on this plantation too.
We enjoyed strolling through the expansive gardens. We saw a group of men measuring a Live Southern Oak tree. They believe it's the largest of its kind in the world. Alligators were sunning in the shallows and sheep were grazing in the meadow.
There are many more homes and plantations that may be visited. We did all that were on the one price deal and it was a good mix. I would have liked to have seen the Magnolia Plantation and Gardens. There just wasn't time for everything in just seven days.
FORT SUMTER
From anywhere on the eastern and southern coast of the city you can see Fort Sumter out in the distance. There is a ferry ride that leave a couple of times a day to go to the fort. We did it and I happen to love history so this was a real treat for me.
THE GIBBES MUSEUM of ART
This small museum surprised me. I absolutely loved it!! it was a mix of Paintings , sculptures and drawings with a mix of a photo show that blew my sock off and miniature rooms and miniature art. Throw in some Japanese art and you are in for a treat. This too I hope to detail soon.
GULLAH TOURS
There are many many tours that can be taken in Charleston. They may be taken by street car, horse and carriage, buses and walking. I don't believe I ever saw such a concentrated amount of tours in one area. There is truly so much to see and learn about.
We took a particularly interesting tour of Charleston. This was in a 21 seat, very comfortable I might add, mini bus. Our guide took us through Charleston with black slavery and African American culture as its focus. This was a terrific tour that also got us to eventually meet a black gentleman who is an iron works artist. His name is Philip Simmons. The city is dotted with his work on gates to private gardens and public buildings. Be sure to check out this tour. The tour guide of Gullah Tours is the owner operator and he is excellent!!
CYPRUS GARDENS
No, This isn't a theme park like the one in Florida. It does however have self guided or guided boat tours through the Cyprus swamp. My wife and I loved this. We were the only ones out there. It was wonderful being there in what is still considered low season. The gardens also sport a small aquarium, a butterfly house, and reptile house. Live alligators and crocodiles are also exhibited.
SO MUCH MORE!!
There are many more homes and museum we do want to get back to see. They also have the South Carolina Aquarium This is on the wharf area where the Fort Sumter Visitor Center is. They also have an IMAX movie. The Charleston Museum, that is very close to the Charleston Visitors center is another place we want to visit.
Across the Harbor is Patriots Point. This is where the aircraft carrier Yorktown and a destroyer, submarine, and coast cutter are all available for boarding and inspection.
AND EVEN MORE TO SEE
I didn't talk about the influence of pirates in the area. Yes, I've been told there are many ghosts throughout the city too. The city is full of fine shopping and small outdoor markets. Fine Antique shops are abundant and crafts can be found everywhere. There is probably so much I'm missing. If you have been here and know of places that should be mentioned, please add a comment at the end of this review.
PLACES TO STAY
Charleston has many places to stay in city center. We stayed in two different places. Out first choice was Charleston Place. I read about it in fellow Epinionator, Tombarnes, reviews. He happens to write excellent reviews and many are of high caliber places to stay and fine dining experiences.
We were not disappointed with Charles Place. It is a five star hotel smack in the middle of City center. You cannot get a better location to the market and fine dining in the area. The service was excellent and so were the accommodations. We were getting quite spoiled. This hotel also offers very upscale shops right in the corridors off the lobby.
We stayed at an Embassy Suites, just two blocks from the Visitors Center our last few days. I was amazed at what a value it was including a hot buffet breakfast and free drinks for two hours every night! This hotel is in the Old Citadel building and is quite a site unto itself.
There are many places that we saw while walking the streets that interested us. A couple of the B&Bs also looked quite attractive.
Though you can save a few dollars by staying just outside Charleston, and it can be just ten minutes away, I still suggest trying to stay in the City Center area. There was something special about walking to our dining destinations.
DINING in CHARLESTON
This city reminded me of New Orleans in a few ways. It was almost like taking the Garden District of New Orleans and setting around a cleaned up part of Bourbon Street without the crowds, sleaze and early morning odors.
The particular area around Market Street in Charleston has wonderful places to dine while listening to music.
We listened to Dixieland music while eating French foods in Mistral. This is just steps from Charles Place. It was our favorite night out. It was a wonderful atmosphere of music, food and drink.
Another place nearby is High Cotton that is noted for its game and other meat menu. This was fine dining while listening to some cool jazz and I might add that the venison was done perfectly.
We tried a few other places that were also in City Center. Anson Restaurant was one that specialized in Low Country Cuisine. Though they didn't have any music, in fact they played some horrible new age canned stuff, it was an excellent place to dine in a semi-formal atmosphere. Thankfully the went to different music at our request.
Our first night in the city we walked around the corner to a chain place by the name of Sticky Fingers for some Ribs and Barbeque. I absolutely loved the Memphis style Dry Ribs. They were outstanding.
We had a fun time one night at an Irish Pub that specialized in seafoods. Tommy Condons also had two fellas that entertained us with song and patter for almost three hours straight without taking a break. The portions were quite generous and the prices made this place a good value.
There were so many places that we didn't have the time to try. 82 Queen has a beautiful courtyard. We passed on the Bubba Gump Shrinp Company this time and the Charleston Crab House seems to be a local chain favorite. A.W. SHUCK's Seafood is also highly advertised.
On our way back from a short trip to Isle of Palm beach area we stopped by Shem Creek Bar and Grill in Mt Pleasant for lunch. This place is an indoor outdoor Low Country cooking delight. It's a restaurant that advertises to "Eat it Raw". This very casual place had some good food and I always like being in an outdoor, on the water type atmosphere with a few cold draft beers.
Another place where we had lunch out of town was at the Middleton Place Restaurant. This is on the grounds of the Middleton Plantation and Gardens. The atmosphere and view was delightful. They also had a fine Low Country menu.
The best in non-atmosphere breakfast is easily Joseph's Restaurant that is also in City Center on Meeting Street. They definitely had the best grits in all of Charleston. We also stopped in at Diana's Restaurant, a cute place, for breakfast.
I hope to have a few of these places added to the Epinions data base within the next week or two. I'll give more detailed opinions then.
CHARLESTON TID BITS
-Much of it is walkable.
-I always felt safe in the city.
-Like other cities know where you are, especially at night.
-Public rest rooms are easily found in city center and the visitors center area.
-There are many tours available, I suggest trying at least one to get oriented
-The Market area is interesting but the prices are inflated
- For some good workmanship and fair prices on sweetgrass baskets go to the church just south of city center on Meeting Street. The artists will be outside on the steps making their wares.
-Unlike NY they do not serve alcohol from full size bottles. All drinks were mixed using tiny bottles that made for exact measurements.
-The people are VERY friendly to tourist
-We were in Charleston in the off season, it was wonderful without traffic and large crowds
-In high season get a map and know where the many public parking lots are. There are many and they are inexpensive and safe.
-For you other Yanks, those three striped flags you'll see are called Stars and Bars. It was the first flag of the Confederacy.
FINAL THOUGHTS
My wife and I thoroughly enjoyed Charleston. As I said it was a quieter time of year and the temperatures were very comfortable. The people were extremely friendly and the city was easy to get around. We are looking forward to returning for another weeks stay.
Other local Charleston reviews by popsrocks
Charleston Blacksmith, The Work of Philip Simmons An amazing book about a National Treasure
Charleston, Much to see and enjoy!
Charleston Place A fine hotel and well located.
Embassy Suites
Charleston, A recommended Charleston Hotel
Gullah Tours An amazing tour with an African American slant. I Strongly recommend this one!!
Fort Sumter Where the Civil War started.
Cypress Gardens, South Carolina a fun half day visit
The GIBBES MUSEUM
Sticky Fingers A local chain restaurant featuring ribs, chicken and pulled pork.
MISTRAL Restaurant Our favorite in Charleston
Tommy Condon Irish Pub Restaurant Food Drink & Entertainment in the Market Street area.
High Cotton Maverick Bar and Grill Live it up and try this place!
Anson Restaurant High Quality Dining of Lowcountry Cuisine
Joseph's Restaurant Breakfast and Lunch
Shem Creek Bar and Grill Just outside Charleston
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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