Paradise isn't for everyone
Written: Mar 23 '00
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Beautiful, relaxed, has the flavor of another country
Cons: Less excitement that other islands or tourist destinations, poor snorkelling
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| Cmjames8's Full Review: Molokai |
Molokai is not for everyone.
Maybe this impression comes from having arrived on a Sunday. Maybe from the feeling I received on several occasions that I was only a visitor on the “Friendly Isle,” and that I was only permitted to visit because my tourist dollars were desperately needed. Maybe its just because if everyone came, it would cease to be Molokai. Whatever the reason, while Molokai isn’t for everyone, it is ripe for those wishing to question their own daily cynicism, and the importance of modernity.
When I decided to look into going there, I was intrigued, but not dead-set. I was looking for something secluded and relaxing. A kind of vacation where I wouldn’t have jam packed days, and endless hopping around. I have been to Hawaii only once before, visiting Maui, but have had my share of travel around the world within the US. I know what different vacation venues have to offer, and had decided to see something new, but honestly, I was planning a trip to the Big Island.
Brandon, my partner and travelling companion, on the other hand remained skeptical. Fueled by his disdain for Florida’s tacky tourist scene, and never having been to Hawaii, I think he sort of lumped the two together in his mind. And who wouldn’t? All of the vacation photos he’s seen of Honolulu would never lead him to believe otherwise.
But bound and determined for a Hawaiian vacation, I persisted in my research. Hawaii is an easy trip, relatively cheap, and let’s face it — parts of it are absolute paradise. I thought the Big Island was likely to be my answer to Oahu’s and Maui’s commercialism. Then someone at work brought up the point that her friend, who is Hawaiian, always took her Hawaiian retreats on Molokai.
That started me thinking. I had remembered seeing Molokai from the shores of Maui and thinking it might be neat to go there. I have a penchant for the off-the-beaten-track locales. I figured it was worth looking into.
The Visit Molokai Web (www.visitmolokai.com) site proved a valuable tool and got me instantly hooked on the idea of doing just that: visiting Molokai. The very idea of beaches where I could be totally alone, non-stop quiet, seclusion, and a tropical paradise that time forgot was intoxicating. Growing up in northern California, I’m no stranger to being on a beach by myself (albeit it is mostly an issue of timing). But as much as I love California’s dramatic vistas, redwoods and eucalyptus, and rocky shores, let’s face it — they’re usually pretty cold. I’d never give them up, but I can’t imagine thinking of it as paradise. Maybe its just because I’ve always had them.
As I searched the internet and discovered a cottage on Molokai where I could actually have my own beach, I became certain. This is where I am going to spend my vacation. Now don’t get me wrong there are lots of places that you can rent a private beach. But I’m a student, with a 9 to 5 in the financial district (a.k.a. poor). And because this island is so secluded and quiet, and lacking for a tourist industry, its also affordable. SCORE!
Being that I was visiting an exotic destination, and one I knew very little about, I wanted to know more about it and what I would be walking into. I somehow wanted to get a glimpse at the soul of the island. I also had 12 weeks to wait before I left, and wanted to spend the time romanticizing my destination. But in my research I was surprised to find a virtual lack of literature to describe Molokai as a destination. There are two books I have found, but otherwise information to be found about the island is extraordinarily sparse. Sure there are passing glances in Hawaii backroads books (Molokai, pg.3, 9, 198-204) that treat it like an exotic mystery (this special little island, visit for the day, and be sure to get back to your hotel on Maui and spend lots of money in the restaurants that have bribed us to be in our book, or give us kickbacks). The listing I liked the most: “Why we aren’t going to talk about Molokai in this book.”
But having been there I can honestly say it is a completely different experience. Unlike most tourist destinations, you are truly a visitor to someone else's home. They have some facilities and activities, but above all the people of Molokai live there to be apart from the rest of the world. It truly has the flavor of visiting a small country, rather than a piece of the US.
When we first arrived, I felt out-of-place. We got in the rental car (an absolute necessity), drove away from the airport, and found ourselves alone, surrounded by bright red earth and beautifully paved roads. I realized later that the isolation I felt was partly due to my unfamiliarity with the location, but also the lack of other tourists to follow. Normally, you leave the airport and have the feeling that you are not alone. There are other outsiders in this place, and that is why they have coviniently provided you with signs to follow, and hospitality kiosks. It was 3 days before we even saw another tourist.
Every time we went to the grocery store, visited a restaurant, or made a phone call, I felt very put-off. I couldn't figure out if everyone was so friendly, why did I feel so poorly treated? The answer came to me over time during our 10 day stay. It wasn't them; it was me. I was so used to false appreciation, small-talk, and shallow behavior reserved for business calls and quick exchanges in the city, that it took me opening up, being a little more relaxed, a little friendlier, for the people of Molokai to reciprocate. And once I got over being up-tight, and expecting an efficient, professional approach to life, Molokai revealed itself. They would "talk story" with you, smile, help you around the island, and twice I was given credit at the store when I didn't have enough cash on me.
But enough of my background banter; I'm sure you'd like some details.
For where to stay, I would recommend, if your budget can afford it, staying on the east end, at least during the summer. The west end of the island is arid, red, and not very visually appealing in the tropical sense. The East end is extremely lush, green, and mountainous. Otherwise Kaunakaka'i, the main "town," is centrally located. We had the opportunity to eat at the Hotel Molokai in Kaunakaka'i a few times, and the service and food are excellent; it would probably also be a nice place to stay.
The best snorkelling on the island, which I found disappointing by Maui standards, is at Mile 20 on the east end. The mile marker sign seems to have disappeared, so its a little hard to find, but just look for a small beach across from a horse paddock, and be sure to go during high tide.
One absolutely must do activity while on the island is a visit to the Halawa Valley and a hike to the falls. This has the biggest bang for your buck. Its a trek through beautiful rain forest guided by the owner of the land or his son, to an incredible waterfall. While on the hike, be sure to indulge by tearing open passion fruit you find, and sucking out the pulp, or gathering some awapuhi for your hair. And once at the falls, you must swim! It is gorgeous and refreshing, and I promise, very memorable. Bring mosquito repellant for the hike, as well as some water, and a towel.
The mule ride to the leper colony, Kaluapapa, is also quite an event. Riding itself can be... uncomfortable, and for some a frightening experience. But hey, you didn't book a trip to DisneyWorld, I suggest going all out! It is a very interesting look at this piece of Hawaiian, well really world, history, and for most people its the only really good look you can get at the island's north shore, which boasts the highest sea cliffs in the world (over 3000'). They are truly impressive.
For a better look, ask someone on the east end to hook you up with Walter Naki. He's probably also listed in the phone book. He doesn't really run "a business," but for some cash he'll take you out in his boat to see the real north shore. If you're lucky, he'll let you off in the Wailou Valley for a look at what it must have been like for the first settlers coming to Hawaii. And if you're up to the walk, seek out the black sand beach at the west corner of the valley. It's probably the most beautiful black sand beach I've ever seen, but prepare for a hike. The scale can be deceiving set off by those incredibly high cliffs. My trip to Wailou was really my big "National Geographic" moment.
I tried to get up into the Kamakou preserve while we were there, but they only offer trips during the first Saturday of the month. From what I've seen of the island, I would definetly try to make it if you're into nature.
There are plenty of things to fill your days. Golf, several secluded and deserted beaches (except on weekends), good food (if you don't mind eating like a local), and plenty the feast your eyes on. But don't go expecting 4-star luxury or nightlife and excitment. Visiting Molokai is like finding a 3 street midwestern town in tropical paridise. It is very rural and very laid back. And respect that this little island isn't geared toward tourism the way the others are. You are a visitor, and should behave like one.
Above all, go to savour the unique travel experience that it is.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
Cmjames8
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Member: Chris James
Reviews written: 1
Trusted by: 0 members
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