The Real Story on Wilmington
Written: Oct 14 '04 (Updated Oct 19 '04)
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Pros: Restaurants, Tax-Free Shopping, History, Location, Business, Jobs, Private Schools, Museums, Festivals
Cons: Small Size, Crime, Nightlife, Congested Suburbs, Drugs.
The Bottom Line: Worth a trip, definitely. Doesn't hold a flame To Philly or NY, but a decent place to make money and have a decent-sized home.
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| DelawareJoe's Full Review: Wilmington |
Wilmington is very unique small city - allow me to explain.
History:
Wilmington has a pretty decent story behind it. With the Dutch settling this community in the 1630s, it was in such a location and timing in which it would have prospered into a Baltimore-sized city.
However, they failed to consider one thing - It was locked into a constricted area by a large River, two smaller Rivers, a marsh, and rolling hills.
Modeled in the same design of Philadelphia, by B. Franklin, it took on a port-city like ambience with high reliance on the Delaware River, and it's two exploding neighbors, Philadelphia, and Baltimore. Wilmington prospered in throughout the rise of industry, shipbuilding, railroads.... etc..... (snore)
It bustled up to over 110,000 people throughout the early 20th Century until a couple "little things" separated and marred the city. Construction of I-95, and the M.L. King Jr. Riots of the '60s Cut the city in half, then burnt it up. Literally.
Since then, the racially divided, geographically limited big-city feeling small city recuperated with the "Laissez-Faire tax laws persuading companies to come into the city, pay next to nothing, and do whatever they want. Delaware became tax-free on sales, and became a major chemical and credit card capital of the world (no exaggeration). Hence, The suburbs expanded to be 10 times more populous than the city, and what you get is a weirdly-shaped metro area with lots of shopping and cheap people that shuts down early at night, often confused to be a gigantic Philly suburb.
Present:
For it's size, nothing other than Atlantic City beats it with attractions. It's no Philly, but Wilmington packs it in as much as possible.
Festivals-
Italian Festival
Wilmington holds the largest Italian Festival outside of New York City the second week of June every year. It consists of two blocks of rides, and games for the kids. In back of this, on the Parish grounds of St. Anthony's Church, lies two more large city blocks. All surrounding streets are blocked off, which leads you to about 30,000 people Eating, drinking, some praying, and listening to music. People are bussed from 1.5 hours away for this festival, which starts off the Summer season. This festival alone juices up the city, and leads to a week of crowded nightlife throughout Little Italy and surrounding areas. This is the time you want to visit the city.
Bob Marley Festival
Bob Marley's only U.S. Residence was Wilmington. He lived on eastside in the late '60s, before going back to Jamaica. The Bob Marley Festival, held in August, draws large hippie-reggae crowds from around the region. Although not nearly as large as the Italian festival, it is something not to miss. The past year, all of Bob Marley's sons attended the festival, and performed for the crowd on the Riverfront.
Clifford Brown Jazz Festival
Clifford Brown was/is (?) a jazz great who grew up in East/North side Wilmington. For two weeks in late May/ Early June a decent sized crowd descends on Rodney Square downtown to hear great jazz tunes resonate throughout the center of downtown. If you are a jazz lover, this is a must.
There are also much smaller but still remarkable Ethnic festivals such as the Polish and Greek festivals. These are more for the community and don't typically draw crowds out of their respective city.
Restaurants- Wilmington has more restaurants than it knows what to do with. This is an area in which Wilmington excells on almost every level.
Luigi Vitrone's Pastabilities - This is a supurb, quaint place to eat invented "pastabilities" of Italian dishes. Pasta comes in about 14 colors. Incredibly artistic presentations of seafood. Recommend Zuppa di Pesce.
Ristorante Attilio - Decently compact ristorante with great authentic Italian food. Not as innovative as Pastabilities, but most definitely worthy of your visit. Broccoli Rabe is a specialty here.
Rossi's Restaurant - This is a restaurant with a great ambience. The Italian food here can be a bit hit-or-miss at times. Across from where DiNardo's famous crabs once was. They got some of DiNardo's crab hints. Try the GARLIC CRABS - you'll thank me.
Madalines - Scott Street family restaurant worthy of your 20 bucks for a couple modest dinners.
Robino's - Again - another family italian restaurant more suited for people who live in the area. Not my preference for a night out on the town, but again, not too bad.
Pala's - This restaurant is the ONLY place I have seen put PROVOLONE on pizza. Very twilight zone, but it's really not too bad. You'll notice this restaurant by it's "World's Worst Pizza" sign in painted wood lettering on the exterior of the building. Ask the story, it just may muse.
Mona Lisa - I've heard it was so-so, but I'll let you know when I go there. I do happen to know they have some sort of Valet service.
Girardo's - You like your pizza siciliano you'll stop here. Very family ambience, nothing too special, but their pizza is something to remark upon.
Walter's Steakhouse - On Union Street, it is a mistake not to stop here. Walter's has been known for having 5-star Delmonico steaks, in a "4-starish" atmosphere. I have no idea what they do to their steaks, nor where they get them, but I would have to put up a decent fight that this is one of the best steakhouses you'll run into in this region. Situated directly across from Union City Grille.
Blue Parrot - Irresistable Cajun food. Even if you're not a spicehead, I can't perceive anyone badtalking the Creole/Cajun cuisine this place offers. Blue Parrot is new, yet has made it's mark on Union Street. On the side of Robino's, it greets you with a three-story mosaic of what I can best guess is New Orleans. Below this plethora of urban art lies a decent-sized deck with plants and sufficient lighting to have a decent dinner in front of a mosaic on a boulevard-type street. I don't want to downplay this; although you ARE on a broad street with traffic, this is definitely something not to miss.
Union City Grille - Another new kid on the block; Former Tarabicos Greek Restaurant. The Exterior on this restaurant was redone to be architecturally very attractive. The grille is hard to miss. Word of mouth tells me this is another jackpot for Union Street, with quality meats and decent service.
Mexican restaurants in this area are plentiful yet not refined. You won't find many sit-down restaurants here worthy of your presence. However - El Toro is known for pretty decent Mexican should you crave it. Second place would have to go to the... Get this: Tijuana Taco Shop. Heh heh. Taco Shop.. but anyway - if ya like Mexican, try it.
ONE THING: There are a few people who come down from Philly and open up restaurants where "Philly" is embroidered on a sign or menu. Keep driving; the majority of these places are horrible. Wilmington food on it own is great, and It quickly becomes apparent why they're no longer in Philly when you try their food.
Trolley Square is a 20-30 something haven for mostly singles. It is a small neighborhood in one of the decent areas on the west side of the city (Dupont St + Delaware Ave will get you there).
Kelly's Logan House in Trolley Sq. is a really decent place to hang out, and drink. Lots of corporate kiddies come here after work to mingle with post-college area natives. It's upper class as a drunktank is concerned, and is a bar. But definitely nothing like Cheers.
Scratch Magoos, Kloondike Kates, and the like are other pubs in the Trolley Sq. area which don't scream out excitement, but certainly are deserving of their young, professional clientele. Not much I would recommend to an out-of-towner, but prove me wrong ;)
Washington St. Ale House and Mikimotos are owned by the same people. Funny again that they happen to be situated next door from each other on Washington Street; yet they are different.
Washington St. Ale house has a covered deck outside for dining on very unremarkable American food. It has a remarkable variety of Beers and Ales, which attract the 30-50 something corporites and bankboys/girls after they run out of those little buildings at night.
Wilmington is a place to get a sub. DEFINITELY.
Frankie's - Old Fashioned as it can be, the food is incredible (and cheap,) and is more original than anything you will find. The same woman has been there since 1940 ( I didn't tell you that,) and is still chopping those steaks. Cheesesteaks are a totally old-fashioned style and only come with provolone. "Submarine Sandwiches," as dictated by the ancient sign outside, are just as incredible. Don't compare this to Geno's or Pat's; They make tourist food, although they are decent. It's just Frankie's has a more old-world Italian flare which draws visiters who regret moving away from Wilmington for this.
Yatz's - Yatz's is very decent food. Their subs are packed with flavor, and meat; Cheesesteaks are decent. They make sandwiches the newer style, where it seems too much meat is crammed into the sandwich drowning out the rest of the experience.
Capriotti's Union St- Again, Newer Style sandwiches. Started out on Union Street 50 years ago, since then has established chains in Las Vegas, Nevada. Las Vegas rates them the best cheesesteaks in the city, one of many plaques you will see crowding the walls.
Strano's, Borgia's, and Fidance's you will see around. They are 10 times better than Sandwiches outside the Philadelphia Metro area, but is rather humdrum for the area.
It saddens me all the places I have missed or not mentioned, because there are more. Besides the prestigious legends, or brand new hotspots I mentioned, feel free to experiment with other areas in the city.
Nightlife
Kahunaville - This is about as good as Wilmington gets, sadly - but is still a cool place. In the Summer, live shows by pretty big names. An outside tropical deck with a very cheesy Hawaiian ambience greets you as you slip away into that uninhibited playland I like to call inebriation. Usually a more rowdy, fun group of 20-somethings is heating it up. Has a kiddies part for those people who like to play games while their friends socialize.
Red Room - Connected to Kahuna, proves to be a decent place to shake that booty with your homeboys/girls. Not too chic of a place. This is more for people who live in Wilmington neighborhoods than for visitors or suburbanites.
Iron Hill Brewery - Cool place with a nice deck overlooking Wilmington's riverfront. Has a heck of a great house beer on tap. This Brewery consists of two floors, with billiards on the top floor, and decent food for a brewery.
Club X - Club in Wilmington by Utopia which is very gay friendly. On Friday night you'll find it a key niche for the lesbian crowd. Has a decent dancefloor, but no other feasible night than Friday, the night the majority of people attend.
Utopia - Predominantly Black club for city kids needing to "back that thang up." Not recommended for mixed crowds as it is very urban, but can prove to be a night out if that happens to be your scene. Decent dancefloor, always has a good crowd on weekends.
Club Eccho - Dance clubs for 40-somethings currently in limbo. May be in process of a change in ownership.
Bankshots - Nice place to get drunk, Rowdy, and watch a game. Not too chic at all, pretty boisterous place for a younger crowd.
Pharoah's - Very nice place with Velvet couches, and an aquarium under the dancefloor. Go Figure. Very nicely put together, newer, with a very decent 20-30 something crowd on both weekends and weekdays. Happens to be on the industrial side of the Christina River (south side). Worth visiting on a weekend.
DO NOT come to Wilmington intentionally for a nightlife.
WARNING: Wilmington has higher violent crime rates than Trenton, Camden, and Compton, CA.
Watch where you drive.
The bad areas are in mostly the East, North, South, and West sides of the city. Maybe I should rephrase that.
Little Italy, Trolley Square, and Center City are good neighborhoods. You shouldn't worry here.
Westside (between Lancaster and 10th, from MLK blvd to Scott St.)is the more Hispanic area.
This area is prone to high crime. As long as you don't stare them down don't be worried. Just be aware of this area. Pennsylvania Avenue is a safer route to Trolley Sq/Little Italy.
The South side of the city is rarely traveled by non-residents, hence dont worry about this area. You probably won't end up here.
Northside consists of everything on the north side of the Brandywine in city limits, from 10th to 44th street. Stick to Market street and you should be fine if you happen to end up here at night. Riverside (along the Delaware river side of Northside)is especially important area to stay out of at all costs.
To live -
The metro area of Wilmington is suburbs. Lots. The suburbs in this area stretch pretty far for a small city. Property values are very low for the region, yet Standard of living in the county in which Wilmington is seated - New Castle County, has the 2nd Highest Standard of living in the United States. The County is first in the Nation with people with Ph.d's, and encompasses a little over 500,000 people. A high standard of living means that variety (stores, jobs, schools) is very high, while costs (taxes, property values) are low relative to the high salaries of it's residences.
Shopping - The area doesn't have a Nordstrom's.. but yeah..... that's all it doesn't have. Because of Delaware's no sales tax, we cram as many retail outlets, Best buys, and Shopping centres on three highways (Kirkwood Hwy, Dupont Hwy, and Concord Pike,) and let people from PA, NJ, and MD come down and pump up our economy. There shouldn't be anything you would have to go "out of town" for (except a cool nightclub).
Riverfront -
New area developing with shopping outlets, clubs, restaurants. This is alright now and will be the spot in about 5 years.
Museums/Parks -
I have to apologize for my lack of detail here. If you read another epinion, you will find out we have some of the most beautiful museums, parks, and colonial history in the U.S. I can't say I've been to too many. I thought, however I would leave you with the little I know about this formidable subject.
Valley Garden Park - Beautiful
Gibraltar - Old Mansion, looks like "Secret Garden"
Abandoned Civil War Railroads - cool
Yorklyn/Montchanin - Nicest back roads/hills/rich hideaways ever. (suburb)
Cemeteries/Old Churches dating back to 1600s
Rockford Park - Beautiful
Brandywine Park - Great
Nemours- 200 y/o mansion makes white house look like a hut
Winterthur - Big pretty garden with flowers and stuff
New Castle town in southern suburbs with core untouched since 1700's
Delaware Memorial Bridge - Longest Twin Span Suspension bridge in world.
Finally - Wilmington. This is this city I have typed about for hours. It is worth your visit. It is just that your visit should be more planned than spontaneous, as the area's treasures don't jump and and bite you in the glutes such as NYC or Vegas. There's pros and cons, but the first one much outweighs the other. ;)
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Singles
Best Time to Travel Here: Jun - Aug
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Epinions.com ID:
DelawareJoe
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Reviews written: 6
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