Wondrous New Zealand - A Place Like No Other!
Written: Mar 18 '05 (Updated Apr 11 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Too numerous to mention!
Cons: Not much wildlife unless you look to the sea!
The Bottom Line: To fully appreciate this country's diversity, plan on an extended vacation! It's an amazing natural world with a fascinating history, temperate climate, and glorious scenery.
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| whalewatcher's Full Review: New Zealand |
Long before the Europeans ever set foot on the islands of New Zealand, the Polynesians, specifically the Maori, undertook the arduous journey from as far away as the Society Islands. They arrived here in their double-hulled canoes (wakas) about 1000 years ago and called the land 'Aotearoa', meaning 'The Land of the Long White Cloud'. As mystical as these remote islands must have appeared to the Maori people so long ago, todays New Zealand still has plenty of magic, to be treasured by all who live there and enjoyed by those who come to visit this truly magnificent and incredibly scenic country.
New Zealand has long been among our top choices of travel destinations and, finally, our dream became reality in February 05, under the brilliant guidance of Black Sheep Touring, a small New Zealand based tour company. And, just in case you might wonder, they are definitely as different as the name implies, only in a positive way! After many frustrating hours of searching on the Internet for just the right trip, I happened to stumble across their fantastic itineraries quite by accident. Wanting to see as much of New Zealand as possible, their adventure-packed 22 day Experience New Zealand Tour offered everything we could possibly hope for. Especially attractive was the fact that tours are limited to a maximum of just twelve people, traveling in two vans, each driven by a guide. I will write more about Black Sheep Touring as soon as it is added to the epinions data base. In the meantime, you might want to check out their website for further details:
www.blacksheeptouring.co.nz
This review will bring you some of our trip's highlights as well as some general information about New Zealand itself. I will then try to address specific areas in separate reviews, as time allows.
Writing about a country as diverse as New Zealand is no easy feat. In spite of our many travels far and wide, we've really never encountered anything quite like it. Imagine 40 million sheep compared to just 4 million people; thousands of miles of stunningly beautiful and often wild and rugged coastline; pristine, sweeping beaches; spectacular glaciers, ice-carved fjords and snow-capped mountain peaks; lush, temperate rain forests boasting over 160 varieties of ferns; geothermal activity spewing hot, steamy geysers 60 feet in the air and heating surrounding streams and lakes to temperatures from balmy to near-boiling. Add spectacular caves illuminated by thousands of 'glow-worms' and an ecosystem unlike any other in the world, and you know it must be God's country!
Except for highly populated Auckland (1.2 million people), there is no pollution, towns are neat and clean, the people are friendly, and the food (especially the seafood) is simply superb thanks to the vast smorgasboard available in surrounding waters! New Zealanders drive on the wrong (left) side of the road, a point that will no doubt be argued, but it is something to consider if you are planning a self-drive tour.
Local economy is thriving at the moment with virtually no unemployment so, with the U.S. Dollar at an all-time low, don't expect many bargains. Food prices are high, so is most merchandise, especially clothes and most gift items. At the time of our visit the exchange rate was 0.73 U.S. for 1 NZ Dollar, a far cry from the almost 4:1 ratio a few years back. Tourism is the driving force these days and, surprisingly, dairy has edged out sheep farming for the #2 spot. Most interesting is that deer farming is also very popular, mostly for meat export to Europe, but expect to find venison on just about every menu.
Our trip started in Auckland, the beautiful "City of Sails", where we enjoyed excellent accommodations at the Sebel Suites overlooking Viaduct Harbor. The city itself is built on a dormant volcanic field and the remnants of nearly 50 volcanoes are still very much visible. Lively Auckland boasts an eclectic mix of culture, fashion, and art. Restaurants are excellent and plentiful (over 1000). The harbor leads out into the Huraki Gulf, studded with numerous sub-tropical islands and there's no shortage of beautiful beaches. No wonder residents here own the greatest number of pleasure boats per capita!
There is plenty to do and see in Auckland, but don't miss a trip to Waiheke Island (ferry costs $25.50 round-trip). This gem offers some of the most scenic coastal hiking trails, lets you admire the high-priced homes of Auckland's wealthy, or search for secluded coves and inlets. And, you'll want to top the day off with a visit to one Waiheke's excellent wineries.
Auckland's Skytower is the tallest tower in the Southern Hemisphere. A ride to the top in the glass-bottom elevator makes a quick believer out of you! Admission is a hefty $18 but is worth every penny! Plan one of your evening meals in one of the two restaurants on the top, reservations are required. The Observatory Restaurant (buffet style) not only offers spectacular views, but this is where we enjoyed one of the best meals in all of New Zealand ($27.50). Orbit, the revolving restaurant one floor above (a la carte) is almost twice as expensive, but acclaimed as one of the finest dining experiences in the city. If you go early, you get a bonus by being able to watch the 'Skyjump', a death defying leap off the tower (harnessed and attached to 2 vertical guide-wires) from a platform 632 ft. high. Quite different from bungy jumping as one steps off feet first, dropping at a speed of 40 mph for about 16 seconds. Welcome to the world of extreme sports, one of New Zealand's specialties!
Another spectacular place just northwest of Auckland is the Muriwai Gannet Colony (approx. 1 hr drive). Muriwai is a pretty resort town on the wild and rugged West Coast with spectacular beaches and popular with surfers, para-gliders, and fishermen. The incredible scenery here was brought to life in the movie "The Piano". An Australasian Gannet colony breeds on these tall cliffs (one of three in N.Z.) between September and March, and provides plenty of entertainment. Gannets are large birds, mostly white with some black on their wings and tails but, what stands out most, are the golden yellow crown and nape, the conical pointed bill, and the area of bare, light blue skin around the eyes. Clumsy on the ground because of their huge, webbed feet (like Boobies), they more than make up for it with their flying skills. They are expert divers and can plunge into the ocean at speeds up to 80 mph, diving to a depth of 90 feet which is quite a sight. But even more extraordinary is the fact that once the young have perfected their flying skills, they leave for the far-away Australian waters or the Indian Ocean, without the guidance of their parents who remain in New Zealand. The young then return 2 or 3 years later, mate for life, and start the breeding cycle all over again. Mother Nature at work!
We headed north-east to Whangaroa Harbor ('wh' is pronounced 'f'), just inland from Matauri Bay, where we spent three nights in a beautiful, secluded lodge, only accessible by boat (Kingfish Lodge). It's a little bit of heaven, the scenery is stunning, and you can kayak, swim, go deep-sea fishing, take a scenic boat ride, or just chill out! The water is crystal clear and teams with fish, we even spotted a rather large octopus just beneath the dock!
From here, we took a day-trip south, to the Bay of Islands, often referred to as "The Cradle of Civilization". This area is historically significant because of its early and dense Maori population and its appeal to Captain Cook, who landed here in 1769. The "Treaty of Waitangi" was signed here, the most important legal document for the Maori, although its full legality seems to be in question. The area is a bustling place, filled with tourists and the best thing to do is to head out by boat and explore some of the surrounding islands. We took a sailing ship (alas no wind) to Robertson Island, where you can swim, snorkel, hike up to a viewing platform and overlook the splendid surroundings.
Another 'must' in this general area is a trip to the Puketi Forest where you find one of the few remaining mature Kauri stands, spectacular tree ferns and other native trees and plants. Kauri trees (a sort of pine) can grow to be several thousand years old, and its timber has been prized for centuries. The trunk grows straight, without knots, and sheds its bark regularly. The wood was sought after by the Europeans for making furniture and we even heard it said that half of San Francisco was built with Kauri wood. The thick resin (sap) from Kauri was used for varnishes, paint, and linoleum. After centuries of exploitation, only a few pockets of these magnificent Kauri stands remain, which are now protected. These days, ancient Kauri logs are still dug up and used for carvings, furniture, etc. and sold at a hefty price. Even the fossilised resin is a thing of beauty and highly sought after.
The Coromandel Peninsula, just south-east of Auckland, is another stunning place, with its jagged mountain range, the many pristine beaches, and rather turbulent history. We crossed the peninsula to Hahei, a small town south of Mercury Bay and the Cathedral Cove Marine Reserve. On the way, we met up with "Kiwi Dundee" Doug Johansen, whose popular eco-tours are not only fun but are an excellent source of information about the 1850's gold rush, as well as the local flora and fauna. We visited an old gold mine and had our first experience with "glow-worms" and "cave wetas" who make these abandoned caves come alive. Glow-worms, which are really the larval stage of a fly, are quite remarkable. Living in caves or shady crevices, they emit a blue-green light during their one-year life cycle, mainly to attract food and, briefly, for mating. The bigger the appetite, the brighter the light! Prey is caught on a vertical and sticky, spider-web like string, which is pulled in after a successful catch. The pre-historic cave wetas, on the other hand, are more cricket-like, and still resemble their ancestors of 190 million years ago.
Gold is still mined in the Coromandel today. The Martha Mine (in Waihi) produces one million dollars worth of gold and silver per week. 80% of the revenue is kept in New Zealand. You can look into the gigantic pit from a viewing platform which is quite impressive. Guided tours are available and there is a museum. Of course, mining has its unpleasant sides and the area is plagued with old collapsing mines. Homes have been lost, people had to be relocated and some land has been condemned. These days, mining areas are meticulously restored, re-forested, or turned into lakes and wetlands.
Hahei and the adjoining Cathedral Cove Marine Reserve, just south of Mercury Bay, are true gems. We stayed at the Holiday Resorts Villas, beautiful accommodations right on the beach. If you are good on foot, the hike on the coastal trail to Cathedral Cove is an absolute must. Tall, white sea cliffs and dramatic arches provide spectacular scenery. Equally amazing and just a couple of miles south is Hot Water Beach, named for the multiple hot springs underneath the sandy shore. Find the right spot, dig your toe in the sand, and it quickly gets hot enough for a burn! If you are ambitious you can dig a deep hole and make your own 'hot tub'. But this can only be done within a 3 hour span around low tide. Rip-tides are prevalent here, so this is not a swimming beach. A large school of dolphins came to entertain us by surfing the waves.
Leaving the Coromandel, we drove south to Rotorua, a completely different, almost surreal world! It is known as one of the most concentrated geothermal areas, which has attracted visitors for well over a century. The smell of Sulphur is everywhere, seeping through the many vents in the earth's thin crust, and geysers seem to be erupting in every direction you look, spewing steam high in the air. The city lies on the shores of Lake Rotorua, so does the original Bath House where mineral or mud treatments for a variety of ailments used to be administered. Today, it is part of the Rotorua Museum of Art and History which very much deserves a visit. And, you can still enjoy the nearby Polynesian Spa ($12) and soak in mineral rich hot pools of various temperatures, treat yourself to a massage, body or mud wrap, or day-long (and very expensive) detox treatments.
Being pampered isn't necessarily my thing, although we did enjoy the hot pools. Rotorua isn't just about spa treatments and geysers, it is also the birthplace of "zorbing"! Some of you might have seen it on TV, in a segment of "The Amazing Race". It's a gigantic clear plastic ball with a smaller ball inside. After squeezing into the smaller ball through a narrow tube, a little water is added, it is zipped shut and you are off, tumbling down a long hill until it comes to rest on the bottom! It's an absolute blast! Zorbing has caught on in various countries and is shortly coming to the U.S., location still undisclosed! www.zorb.com
But perhaps the most spectacular trip you can take in the Rotorua area is to White Island. It requires a one hour drive to Whakatane, from where you board a boat and head out into the ocean (about 30 miles) to New Zealand's only active marine volcano. Equipped with helmets and gas masks and accompanied by an experienced guide, you'll have a personal encounter with amazing volcanic activity. Hissing fumaroles, steam spewing high in the air, bright yellow sulphur deposits, some in the form of beautiful crystals, even a huge, near-boiling crater lake blanketed with an eerie layer of mist, all of which will leave you in total awe. Needless to say, the volcano is very closely monitored and trips depend on current conditions. $140 per person includes lunch (Pee Jay White Island Tours).
Rotorua might be one of the best places for an introduction into Maori culture. Learning their traditions, song, and dance during an evening performance (hangi) at the Maori Art and Crafts Institute was a real treat, not to mention the fabulous meal at the end of the ceremonies! Melissa (one of our guides) is part Maori and never tired of telling us the stories of her people, their customs, and the many mysterious legends passed on through generations.
From here, our tour took us to Taupo, along fertile sheep, dairy and deer farms, all thriving on the volcanic soil. Imagine how odd it is to see sheep and cattle peacefully grazing next to columns of steam spewing from pastures! Taupo, situated on a huge crater lake (largest lake in the country), is the skydiving capital of N.Z. Fringed in the distance by three often snow-covered volcanoes, it's not only picturesque but the lake also yields some of the best trout. Unfortunately, we didn't get to spend time here, instead we hopped on a small commuter plane (18 passenger Beechcraft) and headed for 'windy' Wellington, the nation's capital. Our guides caught up with us later in the day with vehicles and luggage.
Wellington, the second most populous city in New Zealand might easily be one of the prettiest. Tucked in between tall hills and overlooking Oriental Bay, this cosmopolitan city offers just about everything. Many refer to it as the 'cultural capital', and there is perhaps no finer museum than New Zealand's national museum 'Te Papa'. Don't even think you can see all of it in one day, it simply is not possible. But even a few hours spent in this magnificent place are rewarding, just the structure alone is worth a look, situated right on the waterfront.
The city is extremely compact and most of it can be negotiated on foot. Pick up the cable car just off the main shopping street (Lambton Quay), and ride it to the last station for some spectacular views. Don't get a round-trip ticket (one-way is $1.80) as you'll want to walk back down through the magnificent Botanical Gardens (free).
We stayed in the Duxton Hotel, just a block from Te Papa and with views of Oriental Bay. Highly recommended!
Wellington was our departure point for the South Island (via the Lynx High Speed Ferry), and for the more adventurous part of our journey. The scenic crossing to Picton takes less than three hours ($40 per person one-way, $100 per vehicle), with snacks and full bar service available on board. From here, we headed straight to Blenheim, the center of the Marlborough Wine Region. Three wineries later, which included a fantastic lunch at the Allan Scott Winery, and feeling absolutely no pain, we set off for the Marahu Lodge at the foot of the Abel Tasman National Park. The first Maori occupied this spectacular coastal area before famous Dutch Explorer Abel Tasman discovered it in 1642.
Golden beaches and some of the most interesting limestone and marble formations in the Southern Hemisphere can be found here, contributing to absolutely stunning scenery. It was in theses beautiful turquoise waters where we learned how to properly handle the Maori canoe (waka), complete with greeting ceremonies, chants, etc., topped off with a delicious lunch on a beach and a 4 hour scenic coastal hike back to the lodge.
Next stop was Nelson, sunshine city of N.Z. and mussel capital of the world. Green Lipped Mussels, #2 on the list of seafood export are only surpassed by the Orange Roughy, holding steady at the #1 spot. But particularly interesting in this beautiful city is the Museum of Wearable Art, an absolute MUST on your to do list here. What a treat!
Then it was on to Kaikoura on the East Coast, another very popular eco-tourism destination, with the rugged, often snow-capped Kaikoura Mountain Range as backdrop. Kai-koura means food-crayfish in Maori and crayfish (spiny lobsters) are on just about every menu. But be prepared for the sticker shock - a good crayfish dinner can set you back about $80!
Kaikoura is home to several seal colonies, and we had the opportunity to swim with them. Coming nose to nose with these fur seals is quite an adventure, if not somewhat intimidating. They give you the once-over with their large, round eyes, then dart off into the kelp forest, only to re-appear out of nowhere, all the while demonstrating their superior swimming skills. The water is cold but thanks to heavy wet-suits we could stay in for well over an hour. These waters are also the feeding grounds for the giant Sperm Whale, master of the deep ocean. We took a whale-flight (Wings over Whales-$140) to see these huge leviathans from the air as they lay almost still (log) on the water's surface for up to 10 minutes between each 45 minute deep-dive, during which they search for squid. Even the dolphins provided some unexpected entertainment as hundreds of Dusky Dolphins, in pursuit of a gigantic 'fish-ball', celebrated the impending feast with all sorts of aerial manoeuvres.
We only had a few hours in Christchurch, New Zealand's beautiful 'City of Gardens'. The picturesque, willowtree-lined Avon River snakes its way through town, inviting pic-nics and romance. This bustling, very 'English' city is a sheer delight with its open air markets, interesting Neo-Gothic architecture, lovely Botanic Gardens, and excellent shopping. The historic tram lets you hop on and off at leisure and gives some excellent narrating. You can climb the 133 tightly winding concrete steps to the top of the Cathedral. The real value in that lies more in the exercise than in the view, which is not particularly impressive.
Our farm-stay on a dairy farm in Rangiora (Canterbury Plains) was most interesting. As throughout most of New Zealand, cows (as well as sheep and deer) are almost exclusively pasture fed and you very rarely see barns or silos. The only building is usually a small milking shed (or shearing shed) which, upon closer inspection, reveals cutting-edge technology. This particular milking facility was set up to very efficiently milk 575 cows in 90 minutes! To make a long story short, our hosts were delightful and gave us an excellent insight into their country's farming operations.
Our next adventure was a trip on the Tranz-Alpine train, crossing the spectacular Southern Alps, along ice-fed rivers in the shadow of high, snow-capped mountain peaks, through 235,000 acres of Arthur's Pass National Park's rugged wilderness and passing through 16 tunnels, all the way to the rain-soaked, lush pastures at the foot of the western side of the Alps, to Greymouth and the shores of the Tasman Sea. Only 30,000 people live on the West Coast these days, a far cry from the booming population during the gold-rush in the 1800's.
North of here, the formations of the 'Pancake Rocks' at Punakaiki have geologists stumped to this day. Expect fantastic Kodak moments and, if the tide is right, 4 thundering blowholes. The coast here is wild and beautiful, with steep limestone cliffs, home to the rare Westland Petrels soaring overhead. The visitor's center is an excellent source of information, not just about the phenomenon of the layered limestone Pancake Rocks, but also about the unusual and rather spectacular flora and fauna of the adjoining Paparoa National Park.
Little did we know that the highlight of our trip would be here. We took a 45 min. drive north to the Charleston Caverns to go 'underworld rafting' in the glow-worm caves ($120). Equipped with wet-suits, helmets and head lamps, we explored incredible, almost untouched cave formations unlike anything we've ever experienced before. Then, it was 'lights off' as we silently floated through spectacular, glow-worm lit grottoes. It was as if the Milky Way had descended upon us - pure magic! We've often said that this experience alone was worth the trip to New Zealand! To put this into perspective, I have to tell you that my 'significant other' is a geologist and was in the caving business for many years!
We were on the road again, heading south to the Franz Josef glacier which, quite remarkably, is currently advancing toward the temperate rainforest of the coastal plain. We took a scenic helicopter flight high up onto the glacier and walked on the icefield. But even more impressive (and cheaper) is the hike to the tongue of the glacier where you can listen to its straining and cracking. Every few minutes, chunks of ice break away as the huge mass carves its way forward, at the amazing speed of 3 feet per day!
Beautiful Queenstown awaited us, New Zealand's adventure capital! We stayed at the swanky Heritage, overlooking the mountains and deep blue Lake Wakatipu - a gorgeous setting! We needed some serenity to prepare for all the excitement to come. The next day started with the Shotover Canyon jet boat ride, a real wake-up call and sure to bring the heart rate up! This was followed by horseback riding (Moonlight Stables) on a huge farm among deer and Canadian Elk, with breathtaking scenery all around. It's hard to believe, but they are actually cross-breeding Red Deer with the Canadian Elk, a) for more meat and b) for the antlers which are cut twice yearly and sold to Asia at a hefty price. Amazing!
Queenstown is bursting at the seams and growth is evident everywhere. There is plenty of construction and it was really the only place in all of N.Z. that felt somewhat crowded. But there is so much to do here for the adrenaline junkies, from bungy jumping, whitewater rafting, jetboating and para-gliding, to the canyon swing, even skiing in winter, all of which keeps this town busy all year around. For truly breathtaking views, take the Skyline Gondola to the top of Bob's Peak ($18 round-trip), you won't be disappointed. There is a restaurant and excellent gift shop on top and, for the adventurous, a luge-on-wheels track (lots of fun). There is even the opportunity to bungy jump (over my dead body) or take a tandem parapente (para-gliding) flight. We were all suited up for the latter when the wind just simply quit and left some of us standing on the mountain top, having to watch the lucky ones blissfully gliding over the city. :-(
Last, but not least, was a trip to Fjordland National Park and Milford Sound, the most northern and most spectacular of New Zealand's 14 fjords. It's a long, thankfully scenic drive, and rain is almost inevitable. Milford Sound gets over 20 feet of precipitation per year! We had the wonderful experience of staying on a boat (Milford Mariner) overnight. We anchored in Harrison's Cove where we had the opportunity to kayak, swim (brrrr), or take a Zodiac ride in search of the elusive Fjordland Yellow Crested Penguin (we spotted only one). The Sound itself is surprisingly short but, nevertheless, most impressive . Towering mountains, countless waterfalls, seal colonies, primordial rainforest, and steep cliffs carved over twenty ice ages are more than awe-inspiring. A stop at the Milford Sound Underwater Observatory shouldn't be missed. It gives you a fascinating glimpse at the fjord's incredible underwater world. The dynamic landscape of the southwest has met all the criteria to be named a Wold Heritage site and, to date, makes up 10% of all of New Zealand's area.
All good things must come to an end, and so did this absolutely amazing trip. New Zealand didn't disappoint! We spent 22 glorious days in the best of company (7 travelers from the U.S., 5 from Great Britain), were spoiled rotten by our truly superb guides, Mark and Melissa, and experienced things we would have never thought of doing on our own.
And, yes, it's a long flight there, but we decided to break it up. Coming from the East Coast, we spent a night in Los Angeles, then continued the following day on Air Tahiti Nui to Tahiti (8-9 hrs.), where we stopped long enough to stretch our legs and get some fresh air. The continuing flight to Auckland took about 5 hrs. But to be honest, what made the trip much more bearable was the fact that we were able to upgrade at check-in to Business Class ($900). We were not so lucky on the return flight!
I don't think anyone can fully appreciate the beauty of New Zealand without spending an adequate amount of time on both islands. It really requires an extended vacation, and I would not recommend combining New Zealand and Australia, unless you have a couple of months. Both are wonderful in very different ways and should be appreciated separately, if at all possible.
We really enjoyed the people. 'Kiwis' are extremely friendly and hospitable. They take pride in their country, and it shows! Conservation is very high on the priority list and they are almost obsessed with the eradication of certain introduced species who threaten their native forests and birds. Possums, stoats, and wild deer are on the list of 'pests' to be 'eradicated', although possum fur is quite valuable and sweaters made of a combination Merino wool and possum fur can easily cost $350. We never spotted a deer in the wild and I am not sure why they are considered pests, unless they nibble on the saplings of freshly planted, commercial pine forests. In any event, I don't like the word 'eradicate' and would much prefer the word 'manage', tree hugger that I am!
There really is not much wildlife. As someone aptly put it, New Zealand is like a sterile greenhouse. No matter how remote, how dense the forest, very little stirs. And, don't expect to see the extremely threatened, nocturnal Kiwi in the wild. But you can still enjoy a few birds, some are rather unusual such as the large and colorful Pukeko (brilliant blue with white undertail and bright red beak, forehead and eyes), or the striking Kereru (native pigeon), much larger and certainly prettier than ours. There is also the Kea (alpine parrot), a large bird with a fetish for windshield wipers, hiking shoes, or anything else it can find unattended. For those who can't do without wildlife, head for the sea which is never far away!
A very special thank you to Black Sheep Touring, for making this trip so interesting and diverse. And thank you, Mark and Melissa, for teaching us so much about your wonderful country. You must feel very privileged to call it HOME!
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Member: Claudia Testa
Location: Charles Town, West Virginia
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About Me:
Travel fever is chronic. I hope no one finds a cure!
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