DANCE TILL DAWN IN ACAPULCO
Written: Jul 16 '00 (Updated Jan 26 '01)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Plenty of night life
Cons: Not the place if you're looking for seclusion
The Bottom Line: PARTY CENTRAL
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| JAMES23's Full Review: Acapulco |
Acapulco has been a major tourist destination for many years and has something to offer almost every taste from active night life to inviting beaches, through to "shop till you drop" boutiques.
Money is often the key to any vacation, theoretically if one is staying at an all-inclusive and the package included both ground transfers and departure tax one would not need any funds. But for most this is not the case.
Exchanging currency in Acapulco follows the standard rule of convenience versus value. The places with the best rates are often not the most convenient. The worse rates of exchange are to be had at the Airport and the Hotel front desk where the rates were the same or worse than those available back home.
At the other extreme are the major banks which will offer the daily official rate of exchange on cash, travellers cheques and credit card advances. The price for this is time as Mexican banks keep minimal hours and the hours that the foreign exchange desk is open are even shorter.
There are naturally long line ups, some banks take all types of currency, some only American only, and some Canadian. A Passport or other appropriate identification (photo and proof of citizenship) is required. Unless one is exchanging large sums it is probably not worth the hassle.
There are numerous Casa De Cambios or money exchange booths throughout the city. For the most part found mainly along Avienda Costera Miguel Aleman. Their numbers, location and hours of operation make them the most convenient place to exchange funds. The rates are only slightly less than that offered at the bank and identification is only required for large sums or travellers cheques.
There was very little evidence of any Black Market currency exchange and I was never approached. The number of legitimate places to exchange funds would suggest that there is no market for this and any involved are probably trying to defraud tourists either with counterfeit or older non legal bills of as a part of a pick pocket scheme. Although I did not witness or hear of any such activity.
Several stores, restaurants, taxi drivers and other establishments will take American Dollars. Some Restaurants will even advertise their exchange rate outside their premises and offer bank rate or better. I have declined to offer the exchange rates I received here as the week I was there both the Canadian and American Dollar's value changed almost daily, the American increasing and the Canadian falling although in both cases only minimally.
Perhaps the best compromise on value and convenience is to use ATMs. There are literally hundreds of machines located throughout the city all available 24 hours. Unlike some ATMs that I have used, or tried to use, in other Latin American Companies, these were efficient and easy to use.
All are bi-lingual English and Spanish and have signs posted advising which credit cards they accept and which systems they operate on, Cirrus, Plus etc. This means that one is not limited to using credit cards but ordinary bank cards, provided the funds are available, can be used. The exchange rates offered was the same as the banks with only minimal service charges incurred and no time wasted.
Acapulco is a shoppers dream, and one can find everything from the latest fashion beachwear to the ultimate in cheap tacky souvenirs. There are numerous upscale clothing and other shops, mainly along Costera Miguel Aleman between Parque Papagayo and The Naval Base at Playa Iacocos at the other end of the Acapulco Bay. There are also several large air conditioned malls in addition to the street front shops.
Sanbornes is a chain of fairly upscale Department Store with three locations in the city. The largest is in the old part of town near the Zocala or main square. A second almost as large is past the Convention Centre on Costeraa Miguel Aleman, and the third and smallest is also on this main street about midway between The Golf Course and Parquet Papagayo.
All three have a wide selection of goods including English Language Books, and very attentive and polite staff many of whom speak English. All major credit cards are accepted and they use swipe technology to speed up the process.
At the other end of the scale there is an immense Wal Mart which is open 24 hours a day and even includes a liquor department. Other places to purchase this essential souvenir are the numerous small convenience stores and Farmacias most of which sell liquors.
Silver is a favourite souvenir and there is a large selection of reasonably priced items available to suite anyone's taste and budget. The best place to buy silver is in the nearby town of Taco. Day trips and tours there are readily available from DMC and other tour operators.
You don't have to go there however to find good deals, there are numerous jewellery stores along the Costera Miguel Aleman which will cater to your needs. I recommend buying any major purchases from stores rather than the market vendors to ensure quality in addition to the greater selection and convenience of being able to pay by credit card.
Most of the street and beach vendors have been concentrated in authorized markets located at points around the city. This has been done as a convenience to tourists. They are easy to find when you want them, and on theory don't bother you at other times.
Two of the largest are the Mercado de Curiosidades (Arts and Crafts Market) located in the old town and a slightly smaller one near Playa Hornos by the Amusement Park. The first probably has a better selection, but the second is almost directly on the beach so take your pick.
Here you can find leather and other hand made articles , replicas of Mayan and Aztec art objects and the almost mandatory T-Shirts. The last include knock offs of the more trendy Acapulco Clubs and Restaurants. And of course some extremely tacky items. The noise and excitement of the place alone make it worth a trip, although everyone is considered a potential customer and subjected to a high powered sales pitch.
The only tips I can offer are immediately counter their price with one between one third and half and then work from there. If you really want something and you can't get him to barter, either feign disinterest or start talking to the competition, you may get a bidding war going to your advantage. The trick is to get what you want at what you are willing to pat without offending them in the process.
Remember this is how they make a living and not everyone of their customers has more sense than money. Have some fun in the process. It goes without saying of course that this is a cash only market.
For those who wish to experience this but are perhaps less adventurous, DMC offers a "shopping tour" which can be booked through their representative at your hotel. A bi-lingual guide/driver with an air conditioned car will take you to a variety of jewellery and or other stores and the market and assist you with your purchases.
The charge for this is determined by you in the form of a gratuity, your hotel will make a suggestion as to a minimum. It is convenient but probably less fun and one must remember that the places you are usually taken to are selected by the guide and he usually receives a referral fee for bringing them business.
Acapulco offers more than just shopping as an attraction. There is a small nine hole public golf course in the centre of the city. Some friends I met there who played advised me that the fees were reasonable and clubs rentals were available, but that caddies were mandatory and that they found the course neither challenging or a good value.
The amusement park at Parque Papaygo however is a fun and enjoyable place to spend an afternoon or evening even if you don't have children as is the water park near the Convention Centre and beside Planet Hollywood.
There is also the old part of town which is worth strolling through, particularly the town square and the church with its distinctive spires. Fort San Diego on a hill overlooking this area is worth the climb both for the view and the small but interesting museum inside. At night there is the Malecon for strolling on before or after dinner in this part of the city.
There are a variety of cruises and tours available most of which can be booked through DMC through your hotel. During the season there are Bull Fights every Sunday evening. One thing not to be missed is the world famous Cliff Divers of La Quebrada.
There are several shows daily and one can either book a tour or ask any taxi driver to take you. The day time shows offer the best opportunity for picture taking especially at sunset.
For sheer heart stopping drama though, one must take in the night performance with the torch light finale. Please note that while there is a whole industry around this event, restaurants with views, souvenir stands etc., most of the divers income comes from tips and they will pose for pictures afterwards.
One of the biggest attractions is of course the beaches. There are thirty eight beaches in Acapulco and the surrounding areas. Nine alone in the main area of the city around Acapulco Bay.
These beaches are as one can expect crowded and busy with numerous hotels and condos located directly on them or across the street. To locate a secluded beach, one must go either north or south of the city where several undeveloped beaches can be found within easy reach.
The beaches around Bahia De Puerto Marques, located between the Airport and the city is the main water sports area. Here one can rent the equipment and lessons required to indulge in water skiing, scuba, windsurfing, and jet skis among others. There are also plenty of beach side restaurants and bars for when you work up an appetite or thirst.
The main beaches offer as there main activity people watching. However there is enough activity here for those who wish to indulge in something more strenuous than working on your tan lines. Vendors offer glass bottom boat trips, snorkeling, boat tours of the bay, and the highlight of all activities Para Sailing.
I would recommend this to almost anyone as a relatively inexpensive and memorable experience. There are several operators all along the beach and the cost is more or less consistent although the duration of the flight may vary from operator to operator and dependant on how busy they are. It is very safe and a provides spectacular view of the bay, so take your camera up with you, but make sure you tie it on or hang on to it tightly.
There is a social economic pecking order in regards to the beaches around Acapulco Bay. The majority of those who frequent Playa Icacos could best be described as from the upper and upper middle classes. The facilities there cater to this group.
Moving along the shore the economic social standards become more middle class until one reaches Parque Papagayo, here on Playa Hornos and Playa Tamarinos one finds more locals and those travelling on a budget. This is again reflected in the hotels, restaurants and other establishments located adjacent to these beaches.
By the time one reaches the other end of the bay ,near the port and cruise ship docks, the suntanned beach worshippers have been all but replaced by local fishermen working on their nets and boats while their children play in the surf. There does not appear to be any official division of the beaches by class, it is just one of those things that is readily apparent.
There is a wide and varied selection of restaurants featuring both local and international menus. I would personally recommend Carlos and Charlies and Senor Frogs.
I was not overly impressed by either Planet Hollywood or The Hard Rock Cafe however. Most people are attracted to these two places by the name more so than the food. Your Hotel front desk or the DMC rep. is the best source of information regarding reservations, dress codes and credit cards accepted and can assist with any translation when booking.
Acapulco is known as much for its nightlife as for its beaches. This is definitely the place to visit is one is looking to party the night away. The major night Clubs or Discos have a tendency to close and reopen under a new name/management much like those in other cities.
They are immense holding several hundred people and lavishly equipped with fog machines, and laser light shows. Several of them, like Palladium, are located on the hill sides and offer breathtaking views of the city at night. This alone is almost worth the cover charge. Most of the others are located on the Costera Miguel Aleman and one, the appropriately named Disco Beach Bar is located directly on Condesa Beach.
There are certain rules one should be aware of regarding Acapulco's Discos to ensure you have an enjoyable evening with no problems. First no one goes to these clubs before midnight. Even though they open earlier only tourists would be caught there early in the evening.
The regulars begin showing up between Midnight and one in the morning or later. hey then stay until three or four and sometimes dawn. There are even after hours clubs which do not open until two or three and stay open until eight in the morning or even noon for those who just can't stop partying.
Now you can understand why the most strenuous daytime activity on the beaches is people watching, you have to rest sometime. The second rule regards the doorman, who as a rule are the most discriminating bunch of people one can expect to meet. There is often no rhyme or reason on who they let in and who they don't. One's chances dramatically improve if one is young, female, pretty and dressed to show off all of the above.
It should be noted that almost all the clubs have strict dress codes, at least for men. Beachwear is generally not allowed. Although jacket and tie are not required, long pants, shirts and shoes and socks are.
The exception to this rule is when there is a special event night. "Boxer short" or "bikini night" at Disco Beach, or the extremely popular "foam party" at News. Here they literally fill the dance floor waist deep in foam.
News waives their dress code that night but in addition to wearing your bathing suit, I'd recommend taking a towel and dry clothes. The air conditioner is on full blast and it's cold when you come out of the foam pit.
The other way, aside from dress codes, in which the clubs, could be seen to discriminate is in the cover charges. Welcome to Latin America where the rule is men pay and woman don't. Most places let woman in for free or for a much less cover charge than men.
While some of these cover charges may seem high, if it is more than 150 Pesos it probably includes a free bar. Cover charges around 50 Pesos or less are cash bars.
There seems to be some unofficial rule among the Discos that rather than compete head to head on a nightly basis, each club has its own night and the "in crowd" move from place to place all week long. It is not very hard to establish which place is in for the night, and conversely those that aren't are usually easier to get into and often cheaper.
There remains the question of what to do while waiting until it is time to make an appearance at the Disco of the evening. After supper at a fine restaurant, or if one did not dine out that evening, one usually goes to the strip of bars along Costera Miguel Aleman above Condesa Beach.
This is an excellent place to enjoy the sunset and later on join in that most popular of Acapulco past times, people watching. Here everyone tourists and locals gathers and either sits and enjoys the atmosphere or strolls or drives along the avenue flaunting their club wear among other things.
Sometimes the party here is good enough that a trip to the Disco is not really necessary dependant on ones tastes. Recommended are Barbarroja which resemble a Pirate Ship and Langosta Loca (Crazy Lobster). Watch out for the Tequilla Shooters at the later.
Both of these palaces, as do many others offer reasonable priced drinks with all day/night "happy hours" with two for one or three for one deals.
For something different or more sedate there is a wide selection of traditional music and dancing shows nightly. either at the Convention Centre or some of the larger hotels. Many of these are dinner and show packages and reservations are often required, others are free entertainment provided by that hotel and a quiet diversion over coffee or a cocktail.
For the more adventurous the are numerous small cantinas in the older parts of town where traditional live music can be heard. A word of caution if one visits these places, they are basically for the lower income workers and locals. Tourists are a rarity.
The customers are generally polite but proud, and the alcohol is cheap and flows freely. One must use discretion and common sense to avoid inadvertently offending someone sensibilities. That said as long as you are aware of this, a quiet and enjoyable evening listening to some great music can be found here.
Getting around Acapulco is easy day or night. There are a plentiful supply of Taxis either in front of the main hotels or at other strategic points, or cruising the main streets. There are no meters and the price should be firmly established before to avoid any misunderstanding later.
The majority of the drivers I dealt with were honest friendly and helpful. Examples of fares to set places can be obtained from the Tourist Commission or your hotel. Tipping is generally not required unless one has made an arrangement to engage the taxi for several hours.
Acapulco is a Volkswagen lovers dream come true. Mexico and Brazil are the only two places where the original Volkswagen Beetle is still made. In Mexico ,the "bug" is the preferred car for taxi drivers and almost all of the cabs in Acapulco are Volkswagen Beetles, some beautifully customized by their proud owners.
For a change of pace, or if you're on a fixed budget the local bus system is frequent and fairly easy to use. Destinations and routes are clearly marked on the front of the bus like "Wal Mart", "Zocala" and Naval Base" and most travel along the Costera Miguel Aleman from one end of the city to the other. Try and have a supply of small denomination coins available if you decide to use this way of getting around.
Some aspects of crime and personal safety should be mentioned. Acapulco is generally a fairly safe city, at least in the tourist areas. The local government is very aware of the impact tourism has on the local economy.
The main tourist zones are well lit and maintained and heavily policed both by regular police and the special bi lingual special Tourist Police identified by their white uniforms. The later are quite approachable and are even used to posing for the innumerable pictures.
Beggars and street vendors are regularly removed from these areas as to not disturb the tourists. Some may find the excessive police presence disquieting, there are pairs of armed Police at all banks and important offices, but one eventually becomes used to it.
There is some crime and considering the great difference between the haves and have nots the temptation is there for some locals, but the idea is not to encourage it. Common sense is important, don't leave valuables unattended on the beach, do not display large amounts of money or jewellery, or expensive cameras and other items, especially if one is going into the poorer areas. Overall one must remember to pack their common sense along with bathing suits and sun screen.
The locals have developed much more sophisticated and pleasant ways of separating "Gringos" from their money. While beggars are officially non-existent on the Costera Miguel Aleman, a virtual army of time share salesman and others offering special admission prices for various tour or restaurants and Discos must be endured.
Be warned that many consider a simple shake of the head and continued walking as a "yes" or at least a "maybe". To avoid the high powered and never ending sales pitch one must be firm but polite in your refusal.
All the Discos and other night spots use these "salesman" to attract clientele and they are not limited to the streets, hotel staff and every taxi driver in town has a supply of vouchers and special entry passes which they will offer at the slightest instance.
Basically they work like this. The regular cover charge at, for example Palladium, would be 160 Pesos. The driver or other vendor will offer you a special pass for only 130 Pesos with 30 Pesos paid to him and 100 at the door. You will also be told that the pass will allow you to by pass any line up.
It is a legitimate pass and you will be admitted when the balance is paid. However more often than not the price for that night if you bought your ticket at the door will be 130 Pesos. Either that or you could successfully argue it down from 160 to 130, so often there is no real savings.
Some of the taxi drivers use a variation on this. Instead of selling you a pass they will deliver you directly to the club. They then receive their "kickback" from the doorman. This is added to your cover charge.
To save money one only has to exit the cab before reaching the destination and walk the remaining few blocks. Several times I was successful in getting a 50 Peso cover charge reduced to nothing on a slow night. They wanted my patronage and there was no taxi driver to pay off.
To be honest a travel business card does help in this kind of bartering, as I am sure does a pretty female in a short skirt, but I couldn't get away with that one by myself.
Recommended:
Yes
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JAMES23
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Member: James Smith
Location: Toronto Ontario CANADA
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