Italy's New Hampshire - San Marino
Written: Apr 01 '03 (Updated Apr 24 '03)
|
Product Rating:
|
|
|
Pros: Beautiful architechture and interesting museums. Impressive view of Italian countryside from towers. Duty free.
Cons: Cookie-cutter tourist trap shops. Not truly handicap accessible.
The Bottom Line: A can't miss for those traveling the Adriatic coast. Some strenuous walking involved, but the payoff is worth it. Look past the tourist traps for the real attractions.
|
|
|
| pilotpat's Full Review: San Marino |
San Marino lies a bit inland of the middle of the Italian boot, west of the party town of Rimini. Built upon a lonely mountain with sheer cliffs, the defensibility of the site assured its continued independence through medieval times. The last of the true city-states, San Marino continues today as its own country, although admittedly dependent upon surrounding Italy for defense, its economy, and most of its culture.
San Marino's chief product these days is tourism, and they cater to it - in manners ranging from base to beautiful. The primary attractions for those of the latter persuasion reside in the numerous museums, most with a medieval flare, the wonderful stone architecture of the upper city streets and shops, and the castles that sit atop the mountain. From there, one is afforded a spectacular view of the surrounding Romagna countryside. On a clear day, one can see the Adriatic, but on any day, vineyards, farmland, and rolling hills are a feast for the eyes.
GETTING THERE
Getting to San Marino is relatively easy. Rimini, being a tourist resort on the coast, is served by rail and autostrada. The drive west from Rimini to San Marino is only about a half hour, and buses are available should you not desire to rent a car (or should you decide to opt for the safety of mass on the Italian highways - driving a tiny Fiat Punto in Italy at ridiculous speeds as you get passed as if standing still is an experience better read about than participated in).
The flats of the coast give way to a gentle incline and soon you pass into the country (somewhat of a non-event with no border guards or customs to worry about). It's not the signs that tell you this has happened, but the sudden blooming of grey industrial-style duty-free electronics stores that cater to both Italian locals and the predominantly German and Italian tourists that flock to Rimini in the summer. Keep driving.
THE CITY
Soon you come to the base of the cliffs, and start to drive the winding, narrow, and steep roads up to the city proper. The roads are lined with trees and have wonderful views, but keep your eyes on the road if you're driving. Several sadistic (my word for anybody who climbs hills better than me) bicyclists use these roads for training, sharing them with the buses, tourists, and the insane Mario Andretti wannabe in his Alpha Romeo.
PARKING
As the road climbs, you pass several turn outs to small parking lots with relatively reasonable daily rates. If you park in these lower lots, you will need to take a bus to the top, unless you are one of those bicyclists I referred to earlier. As you get higher, the signs warn you if no further parking is available, so I advise continuing as high as you can go. The parking at the top is not much more expensive than that on the bottom, especially after bus fare. Once you've parked, ditch the high-trend leather shoes you bought in Verona for your trusty hiking boots or walking shoes. You'll need 'em.
THE WALKING TOUR
My favorite place to start the walking tour is at the plaza at the base of the old city. At this plaza are about 5 shops - a cigar shop with a choice running from cheap to some reasonable Cubans, a novelty store with plastic swords and imitation firearms, a postcard store with scenes ranging from the San Marino castles to nude women on the beach, a cheap jewelry store that sells a lot of watches, and a parfumerie. Congratulations, you have now seen 90% of the San Marino markets! Visit them now, so that as you start your walk up the hill and see the same shops repeated every 200', you can keep your eyes peeled for better uses of your time. As my Italian friend and ad hoc tour director said, "San Marino is like Venice, if you were to pick it up, it would read 'Made in China' underneath."
The cobblestone walks are steep, not lending themselves to strollers or wheelchairs. Should you have small kids, I recommend a backpack. Don't worry, there's plenty of places to stop and take a breather.
The climb to the top is worth it. The castles at the top of the mountain have been refurbished to much of their original splendor, and in addition to the informative museum exhibits, supply incredible views. I recommend visiting each of the three towers for their unique views and displays, but should you have limited time, the top tower is of course the destination of choice.
Descending from the towers, another "don't miss" is the large flat marble and granite courtyard that serves as the current center of government. Statues and more displays complement the views of Romagna from here. Yet another museum that demands your attention is their medieval armament museum which contains all sorts of armor and weapons, duplicated poorly in plastic and wood at the ever-present street vendors and tourist shops.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
All city officials, including the traffic crossing guards, wear beautiful uniforms, replete with different types of feathers, garnishings, and sabers. Visiting in April or October will allow you to see all the fancy trimmings as they hold their elections, parades, and "investiture" ceremonies in the courtyards and streets. Otherwise, you can be content seeing the police and crossing guards as you walk the picturesque streets.
WHAT DO I EAT?
Plenty of restaurants invite you to stop along your trek, including several gelato cafes, which turned into a favorite vice during my visit. Of course, just about every restaurant will serve you an espresso or cappuccino, and their fares concentrate primarily on Italian and German cuisine. Although I am usally willing to indulge in sausage and kraut, I prefer the lighter Italian cuisine while in San Marino, as I find much German food not quite conducive to strenuous walking!
WHERE DO I STAY?
I find San Marino to be more of a day-trip destination. You may find yourself happier staying in Rimini, or even better, just up the road in Cesenatico [click here to read my review of Cesenatico and the Hotel Pino]. If you do decide to stay here, there are some hotels, just expect to pay a bit of a premium for the location.
OVERALL
If you're going to be in the Romagna region, San Marino should be a mandatory destination on your itinerary. Just like Venice, If you're willing to look a bit past the tourist traps, you'll find a wonderful experience inside. For castle settings, it's one of the best in Italy, although if you are looking for a more serene and less busy castle setting, I'd recommend Sirmione (on Laga di Garda in Northern Italy). Bring your hiking boots and your camera.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Mar - May
|
|
|
|
Epinions.com ID:
pilotpat
|
 - Top 500 |
|
Member: Pat
Location: World Traveler
Reviews written: 96
Trusted by: 41 members
About Me:
"Never tell your neighbors to wait until tomorrow if you can help them now."
|
|
|
- Add to My Yahoo!: 
- Add to Google Homepage: 
© 1999-2009 Shopping.com, Inc.