Sykes Hot Springs / Ventana Summer Watering Hole
Written: Oct 05 '03 (Updated Nov 18 '03)
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Pros: Gorgeous, serene, easy access, swimming and hot springs
Cons: Poison oak along the trails, no open camp fires allowed, lots of climbing and descending
The Bottom Line: Great hiking with an unbelievable watering hole for the hot summers, or relaxing hot springs in the winters. Not well documented on the web at all.
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| gdinero's Full Review: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park |
Big Sur is located about a half hour drive south of Monterrey along Route 1. Along the drive, you will be exposed to curves adjacent to sheer cliffs, with Pacific ocean views on one side of the road, and lush mountains on the other. The sense of nature, of things bigger than us, pervades those who take the drive.
The Main Entrance
There is a visitor center at the main entrance which sells books and maps, and allows you to reserve or purchase camping permits. You can reserve one of four accomodation types. 1) Motorhome / RV site. 2) Camping site in the same area, that you can drive up to. 3) Camping site that you have to hike to. 4) Lodge rooms located next to the visitor center. Bathrooms and water fountains can also be found there, as well as two parking lots.
Camping
The first two options offer sites that are closed off the the general public along a river. Showers, a picnic area, and plenty of vegetation are all available.
The third option offers the opportunity to hike up and into the Big Sur park. If you enjoy hiking, you can camp as close as 4.5 miles from the visitor center or much further way. It’s $4 per night to park your car there for any overnight trips, and otherwise free to hike and camp. But you will need to obtain a permit to carry a camping stove. No open fires are allowed.
The Trail
The entrance to the park is called the Pine Ridge trail. As the name implies, it winds along the upper side of the tree covered mountains there. You get to go up and down many times, crossing small streams by hopping across the rocks lining them, all the while trying to avoid the poison oak bushes that are everywhere. The trail offers a little bit of everything, with narrow ledges giving way to 1000’ sheer drops, giant redwood trees and other dense vegetation, and breathtaking – romantic even – views of the valleys and mountains around you. . IMPORTANT - Wear long pants tucked into socks to avoid getting poison oak. Poison oak is EVERYWEHRE along the trail. We were all extremely careful, and went so far as to bag up our clothes after use for later 'decontanimation.'
Ventana Campground, Recommended for the summer – 4.5 Miles from the entrance
I’ve hiked into Big Sur twice this year. The first time was in July, and we hiked into the first camp site. The trail is challenging, winding up and down the hills, through the wooded land and also on the bare hill tops. In going to the first campsite, we branched off the main trail after 3.5 miles, going down from the top of a hill to the river below, down a very steep switch back type of trail. I don't recommend it for those with weak joints without the aid of a trekking pole. You'll also want shoes with good traction.
The reward is nothing short of amazing. Along with room for 10 to 15 generously spaced-apart camp sites, the river flows through an area with deep waters for swimming, and very slow currents. It's surround by flat warm rocks, that you can simply lie on and read a book in the sun, or jump off of into the deep pools below. The river was very cold, but refreshing during the day. There was no skinny dipping when I went, and maybe 10 tents worth of people. And as it was crooked in the valley between two mountains, it was gorgeous with sunlight filtering through to this watering hole, and its green clear waters.
We did not see any unusual animals, but did see several types of birds and heard an owl.
Sykes Hot Springs
Sykes is the name of the campground that hosts some very warm natural hot springs. It’s located 10 miles from Highway 1, at the Big Sur park entrance, or 7 miles from the federally maintained Old Coast Ridge Road. I personally didn’t think the hot springs were a big deal. They were definitely warm, and there’s something to be said about laying in a natural pool of hot soothing water in the middle of the wilderness. But they weren’t Ohh and Ahh sort of impressive.
Getting to Sykes
The trail to Sykes is well marked and challenging. Starting at the main entrance and ranger station, it’s something like 3.5 miles before you’ll see the signs to the Ventana campground (which is located in the Ventana Wilderness) mentioned above. It took us a little under two hours to get to that point. Another 30 minutes later, you’ll reach another campground and stream with a junction to the Old Coast Ridge Road. There will be a sign that you are five miles from Sykes. The last landmark is found two miles after that, with a sign for the Badger Flat campground. Don’t let the name fool ya, there’s nothing flat around there. It took us six hours to get to Sykes and 5.5 to get out. That said, I think it could be done in 4.5 if your are hustling and don’t take any significant breaks.
When you actually reach the Sykes campground area, you will be at the main river for the first time. Now, for the most valuable advice in my entire write up. As you step off the trail, and the river remains in front of you, turn left. DO NOT CROSS THE RIVER. Not that you really shouldn’t, just that you don’t have to. I visited when it was 50 degrees outside, and I am putting a lot of emphasis on staying dry. If you are visiting in July, feel free to splash through the river if that’s easier. You will be heading downstream. After going for 20 to 50 yards, it will seems like you can’t go any further without getting wet. If you are very careful, you can continue moving downtream using tiny foot holds on the rock along the river. You will be stepping on a foot or so above the water’s surface. And you only need to do these precarious steps for 20 feet or so. Another 100 feet after that will be two campgrounds on your left. This is a fairly good place to grab some space for the night.
Once you’ve dropped off your packs, continue heading downstream on the left side of the river. You will be doing some gnarly rock scaling along a fairly well indicated path. It should take you less than 20 minutes to get to the hot springs. There are actually two pools. One is located 20 feet above the river, and another is located at the river elevation, maybe 10 feet up river from the higher one. Both pools can only accommodate four or five people at a time, so unless you are lucky, you’ll likely encounter a line of sorts.
Sykes holds some hot if unremarkable hot springs deep in the Ventana Wilderness off of the Big Sur state park. The main reason I wrote this thing up is to help those who are interested in going to Sykes actually find the hot springs once they get to camp. I would budget six hours each way for the hike, and plan on seeing quite a few other people visiting with you. The hike itself is beautiful and worth a visit.
RV Sites
We only ventured into the RV area for a minute (and only in the Summer around July), but it was FILLED with kids. It was very loud, not very remote, and in my opinion, not very peaceful. Not for the romantic couple.
Planning
Uh, there’s nothing really to plan as far as reservations. Just show up. I’ve heard that Sykes gets incredibly crowded during warmer months. There were probably 25 other people there on a November weekend when I visited. You will probably want to bring:
- Poison oak lotion, just in case
- Pack towel for the springs
- Knee support – 3 out of 4 in our party had knee issues before we finished
- Trekking poles – not required, but helpful for easing you up and down the many hills
- Water making supplies
- Ibuprofin
- Headlamps
- Tiva’s or equivalent sandals
- (plus all the other stuff that goes with an overnight hike)
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: Anytime
Recommended for: Couples
Review Topic: Hiking & Trails
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Epinions.com ID:
gdinero
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Reviews written: 40
Trusted by: 2 members
About Me:
Travel addict. Love speed, gadgets, and sometimes my PS2.
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