Possibly the Greatest Road Trip in North America
Written: Dec 13 '04
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Pros: Wilderness, Brooks Range, North Slope Tundra, Arctic Ocean
Cons: Mosquitoes, can be cold even in summer
The Bottom Line: If you love road trips, wilderness, incredible scenery, and high adventure then the Dalton Highway is for you.
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| badgerdutchman's Full Review: Dalton Highway Recreation Management Area |
If you're like Jack Kerouac and feel the road calling then driving Alaska's Dalton Highway is an adventure that will surely satisfy you. In the summer of 2004, my father and I drove its entire length. In two months of Alaska travel we went to most of the top sites, but the Dalton Highway stands out as the highlight of the entire trip.
The recommendations you will read about when planning your Dalton Highway adventure should be followed. Only attempt the drive with a vehicle in top mechanical condition. Bring two full size mounted spare tires and extra fuel. This is not overly cautious advice. The road conditions can be dreadful. There are large sharp rocks, washboard, and potholes along the entire length. We drove carefully and had no trouble, but be prepared to deal with flat tires. Also, consider putting deflector shields on your fuel line and tank. No matter how carefully you drive, you will not be able to miss every rock. Inevitably, your tires will throw a few large rocks against the floorboard and potentially your fuel tank and line. If shields are not practical then take it slow and easy. The Dalton Highway crosses hundreds of miles of remote wilderness with few services along the way. Bring extra fuel.
We drove from Texas to Alaska in my father's new GMC truck. This vehicle is perfect for the Dalton Highway. A truck or SUV is the best choice, but even a car is suitable. Be aware that oncoming eighteen wheelers throw many rocks. There is a reasonable chance that your windshield will get cracked. Don't be surprised if the body of your vehicle gets dinged. Broken headlights are a possibility as well.
Why then, under such conditions, would you want to take your beautiful, expensive new truck or SUV up the Dalton Highway? Simply put, you don't have to. You can rent a Ford Taurus out of Fairbanks that is specially equipped for travel on the Dalton Highway. It will have heavy duty tires and deflector shields. Included are two spare tires, a tool kit, a first aid kit, and a CB radio in case you need help. The cost is reasonable. The total on our rental came to $465.25 for four days. That included a two hour oil field and Arctic Ocean tour out of Deadhorse for both of us. Ask at the visitor center in downtown Fairbanks for a referral.
The road condition of the Dalton Highway varies from stretches of relatively smooth chip sealed surface, to frost heaved chip seal, to good gravel, to very rough gravel. The worst stretch in mid June 2004 was in the foothills north of the Brooks Range. The road is maintained but takes quite a beating from the harsh climate. Be prepared for some rough road.
The scenery along the length of the highway is varied yet consistently spectacular. You will experience Alaska's interior, Brooks Range, and north slope. At the start of the trip, the boreal forest stretches unbroken except for areas burned in recent wildfires. The Trans Alaska Pipeline parallels the highway most of the way to Deadhorse. Observing the pipeline snake through miles of boreal forest, mountains, and tundra gives an appreciation of this impressive feat of engineering.
Stop at the visitor center at the Yukon River crossing. The attendant we met was very friendly and helpful. Take the short walk to the platform overlooking the Yukon River and snap a few pictures. This is one of four stops along the entire length of the highway where fuel is available. Always fill your tank at every opportunity.
Not too far north of the Yukon River the gravel is replaced with chip seal. Go ahead and increase your speed but be on the lookout for nasty frost heaves. On the entire length of the highway, we rarely went over 50 MPH. Most of the time we averaged about 35 MPH. In the roughest parts about 25 MPH.
The boreal forest begins to thin and gradually becomes replaced with the taiga forest. "Taiga" is a Russian word meaning "forest of stick trees." This is an appropriate description of the forests north of the Yukon River to the vicinity of Coldfoot. Stick trees are scattered about the vast rolling plain. The growing season is so short and the winter so harsh that the trees grow very little from one year to the next. Consequently, they look like sticks. One could easily mistake a two-hundred year old tree for a sapling.
Stop at the rest area between the Yukon River and Coldfoot to hike among the tors. These are bizarre rock formations jutting out of the ground. Some very informative signs explain the geology and history of the area. Take the time to stretch your muscles here and soak up the beauty of Alaska's interior.
A stop at the next rest area, located on the Arctic Circle, is mandatory. Get a picture of you and your party standing next to the Arctic Circle sign so you can prove to your friends that you were there and cash in on bragging rights.
The scenery changes noticeably north of the Arctic Circle. The foothills of the Brooks Range appear ahead. The boreal forest gives way entirely to the taiga forest. Further north, in the Brooks Range, the taiga begins to thin. The sun no longer arcs over the sky. Rather, it circles above and casts beautiful hues and angles of light that you never before witnessed unless you have previously traveled in the Arctic.
On a clear day, far off on the northern horizon, the first glimpse of the awesome Brooks Range is revealed. This is a defining moment of the trip. Your first sighting of the Brooks Range is a thrill you won't forget for a long time. Take a break from driving upon arrival in Coldfoot. The BLM, National Park Service, and the federal agency that oversees the national wildlife refuges have opened a wonderful visitor center in Coldfoot. Do not miss the evening program presented by the knowledgeable rangers. The center has some fine displays as well. For dinner, the restaurant in Coldfoot offers a pricey buffet. The food was rather mediocre the evening I ate there, but acceptable.
You could get a room for the night in the hotel, or better yet, drive five miles up the road and get a campsite at the Marion Creek Campground. This is a beautiful campground in an idyllic location. You will be camping about 65 miles north of the Arctic Circle, under the midnight sun, in the taiga forest, and among the foothills of the Brooks Range. This is a great campground for tenting. The campsites are suitable for a truck with a slide in camper or even a small to medium sized RV. You may want to spend two or three nights. A hiking trail follows Marion Creek two miles to a waterfalls. Unfortunately, I did not have time to take this hike. Free firewood, pit toilets, and hand water pumps are the only amenities in the campground. The camping fee is dirt cheap. Be aware that the mosquitoes are horrible here. Be certain to have a head net and high quality repellent. Also, this is bear country so take the necessary precautions.
When ready to continue north, go back into Coldfoot and fill your fuel tank. The next services are 245 miles up the highway. Ahead is nothing but glorious arctic wilderness. The stark and imposing mountains of the Brooks Range stretch for miles and are nuanced with subtle shades of color. Patches of taiga forest and stunning arctic rivers are common in the valleys. This sublime landscape is illuminated by the glow of the summer sun which never sets. The ever changing angles of light create a mysterious, otherworldly atmosphere of ineffable beauty. Near Atigun Pass, the taiga forest finally gives way to bare mountains and tundra. Not a single tree is in sight. Vistas encompassing miles of treeless mountains and rolling tundra overwhelmed me with awe and inspiration. Descending from the pass, the north slope begins to unfold. Here the highway affords views of the Brooks Range spanning miles upon miles and flanked by seemingly infinite tundra. The scene is vast and incredible. It is like being on another planet.
Bring a warm jacket, hat, and gloves. On the north slope, even in summer, winter is often in the air.
As you approach the Arctic Ocean, the tundra appears perfectly level. A bizarre geological formation known as a "pingo" occasionally appears on the horizon and studs the tundra. Small, shallow lakes are common. Basketball size clumps of grass called "tussocks" dominate the surface of the tundra. The Franklin Bluffs, odd and incongruous yet beautiful, appear on the east side of the highway not far from Deadhorse. Strange cracks on the surface of the tundra form large polygons and are caused by melt water reacting with the underlying permafrost. Caribou are abundant. It is rare but possible to see a herd of muskox.
Deadhorse is an ugly place but worth seeing. Pay the $38 and take the tour of the Prudhoe Bay oil fields and Arctic Ocean. The only drawback is that the tour begins with the showing of a pro oil company video made by the oil companies operating at Prudhoe Bay. It is blatantly biased and mostly propaganda in favor of drilling and developing Alaska's arctic wilderness. Regardless of your stand on this issue, the tour through the oil fields is fascinating and revealing. The best part of the tour is the stop at the Arctic Ocean. Dip your foot in the ocean or better yet, join the Polar Bear Club. The tour company provides towels for that purpose!
If you are driving the Dalton Highway at the time of year when the sun does not set, I highly recommend traveling late. On our way back from Deadhorse, we crossed the north slope and reentered the Brooks Range around midnight. Under the midnight sun, the tundra, the mountains, and the sky possessed a singular beauty and grandeur. Also, your chances of seeing wildlife are much better. We saw a sow grizzly bear with two cubs running at full speed. Then a wolf appeared on the tundra along the road. In the Brooks Range, under the midnight sun, we pulled over on the side of the road and watched a massive, lone grizzly bear graze under the pipeline. It was magnificent.
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: June-August
Recommended for: Thrillseekers
Review Topic: Overview
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Epinions.com ID:
badgerdutchman
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Reviews written: 3
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