Queenstown for the EXTREMEly un adventurous.
Written: Mar 07 '04 (Updated Dec 19 '06)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: The scenery will leave you breathless.
Cons: Too much to do-not enough time, money or nerve to do it all.
The Bottom Line: This is just about the ultimate tourist destination.
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| hollynz's Full Review: Queenstown |
When Hubby discovered we had enough Qantas Frequent Flyer Rewards Points for two domestic flights he suggested we go somewhere nice for my birthday. Well, considering it was a free flight, I figured we may as well go for broke and head way down south for a couple of days R & R. We were both keen to visit Queenstown and explore this very popular tourist destination for ourselves.
Location
Queenstown is situated in what we Kiwis refer to as The Deep South. No-one seems to know why we call it such and I have heard that the Southerners refer to us Northerners as being from The Shallow North !
I’m not sure where the South Island becomes Deep but Central Otago and the Southern Lakes area is about as Deep as you can get.
This region covers the bottom third of the South island and conjures up images of fiords and mountains, glaciers and isolated river valleys. I have always wanted to go there but it is still on the must-do list at this stage as a few days in Queenstown just wasn't enough. The best way to explore the region would be by doing a road trip and spending a few weeks discovering all the beauty the region has to offer. Flying in and spending a couple of days here does not really do justice to the region at all but it gave me a small taster of what is on offer here.
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We left Rotorua on a 12:30pm flight and during the flight we were treated to some spectacular scenery as we flew close to The Southern Alps. Visions of Lord of the Rings were flashing through my head as we passed over some of the most amazing landscapes of river valleys and sweeping mountain ranges.
We landed at Frankton Airport bang on schedule at 2:10pm.
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My first impression as we left the plane was that I had walked into the middle of a landscape painting. The hills are different down here, I am so used to the North Island scenery that it was hard to fathom that I was still in New Zealand. It reminded me of the drive we did over the Million Dollar Highway in Colorado and around Zion National park in Utah. This wasn’t like my New Zealand at all and it was a very strange feeling. The lower foothills had a surreal look as well and it wasn’t till hubby pointed out that there was no vegetation on them that I figured out why it looked so different. Due to the cold climate down here, these hills would no doubt be smothered in snow for most of the year and vegetation would have a tough time surviving. The hills were bare and brown and the shading on them was quite beautiful. I can see why they have inspired so many artists to capture the images.
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The airport is a few kilometers from Queenstown so you will need some form of transport from here. Walking down to Baggage Claim we passed loads of Rental Car reservation desks but what caught my eye was the Super-Shuttle desk. We stopped here and booked a return trip to town. It cost (NZ)$18 each ( return ) to our lodgings and with a huge fleet of Shuttle Vans, there was certainly no mucking around.
The taxi will cost around (NZ)$23 - $25 one way and the Shopper Bus is $3.50 one way but will drop you off in town.
The drive in to Queenstown took all of 10 minutes with the bonus of scenic lake views along the way. We got a small orientation tour of the township while dropping off the two other couples in the bus before we got to our accommodation at The Abba Garden Motel.
The motel was nothing to write home about and was on a noisy road but served us well enough. It was a short walk to town, the lake, the gondola and handy to a large supermarket.
We checked in, had a coffee and headed off to explore Queenstown.
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The weather wasn’t the best with low cloud hugging the tops of the mountains but the rain stayed away till evening. We went to the Information Centre and browsed all the brochures. There is a wealth of options for activities and tours and we decided to book The Shotover Jet Boat trip.
After booking our trip for the following morning, we headed down to the lake front to take in the views.
Queenstown is located in a natural amphitheatre on the shores of Lake Wakatipu. The towering peaks of The Remarkables Mountain Range frame one side, the lake seems to go forever and is framed by yet more towering hills and the slowly rising hills behind the town were covered in Alpine Forest.
The town is a bit lacking in character. It felt more like a Tourism Service Centre than a town to me. Every second shop was selling a tour or activity of some sort. The clothing shops were dominated by ‘adventure chic’ and the streets were busy with huge tour buses and vans smothered in Adventure advertising of some description.
Down by the lake front the atmosphere feels a bit more intimate. There are loads of outdoor eating places and a big grassy area of Earnslaw Park was a natural gathering place and people were laid out sunbathing and relaxing. There are better shops for browsing down here as well as a few interesting Art Galleries which had me wishing I had a few thousand dollars going spare. There were some lovely pieces for sale, especially the sculptures done from local Oamaru Stone.
The town was full of tourists from just about everywhere. There was a large presence of Americans, Brits and Asians as well as loads of backpacker type Europeans. One English guy was attracting a lot of attention as he proudly wore his T-shirt referring to the Rugby World Cup, talk about rubbing salt into the wound but it was all good natured stuff.
We got talking to a guy from Austria who had just arrived from Australia. He had to keep telling himself he was actually in New Zealand, NOT Austria. The alpine scenery was so much like home that he was starting to have serious doubts that he was actually in the South Pacific at all.
The few New Zealanders we did encounter all spoke with the southern accent that stands out to other New Zealanders. The southerners have a way of rolling their R’s which is only heard in the Deep South region.
Some people we were talking to from Seattle thought we must be Australians as we didn’t sound like the New Zealanders they had heard while here.
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If you are looking for some cheap eats in town check out The Pig and Whistle on the corner of Camp and Ballarat Streets. This English style bar has great pub meals with hearty servings and low prices. The outdoor garden bar is a lovely place to sit and either catch up with the live sports on the big screen TV or sit by the bubbling stream and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.
Hubby couldn’t resist the Lunch Special of Bangers, Mash & Peas all for the huge price of (NZ)$5. The meal was actually very tasty and the servings were fairly generous as well.
Another cheap eat can be had at the Turkish Kebabs place on Beach Street and The Mall. Try the Turkish Burger ~ for (NZ)$6 it is a good deal. The guys certainly go all out with the servings here as well and the Donar Kebabs will keep you going for a day or two they are that big.
Our motel unit had a fully self contained kitchen and with a large supermarket just down the road, cooking for ourselves was the most economical way to go.
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Now, here we were in the Adventure Capital of New Zealand so what did we do?
We had booked a Shotover Jet trip for 10am on the first day but because the river was running dangerously high, the 10am trip had been cancelled. Rather than cancel the trip altogether, we agreed to check back at noon to see if the river level had dropped. This meant we had to pretty much hang around town all morning so we went shopping for a few hours. It turned out the river was still too high at lunchtime so rather than wait around all afternoon, we rebooked for 10am the following morning and headed off to do something else.
The weather had packed in by now and the grey skies were heavy with clouds. We had noticed an old steamship doing a regular run up and down the lake so we decided to jump aboard and do a lake cruise.
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The TSS Earnslaw Vintage Steamship does a regular run across to Walter Peak High Country Farm about five or six times a day. This old steamship is still powered by steam and the lake cruise is a great way to enjoy the surrounding scenery at an easy pace.
It was built in 1912 to service the remote sheep stations that surrounded the lake and was used as a cargo ship, transporting up to 1500 sheep and 30 cattle at a time. These days, the old girl carries up to 350 passengers maximum across the lake to popular Walter Peak Farm.
Just after pulling away from Queenstown we were invited to join a tour through the boat with the boats historian. Hubby was interested in checking out the engines etc but I stayed out on the deck enjoying the spectacular views. The Captain gave us an interesting narration of the points of interest along the way.
When we got to the pier at Walter Peak, those that had passes were invited to disembark while the rest of us stayed aboard.
We didn’t feel a need to visit this High Country Farm ourselves but I’m sure it would be a fun thing to do to introduce yourself to a slice of sheep station life. They hold farming demonstrations and we could see the visitors being treated to a display of a team of working dogs being put through their paces. You can do horse treks, watch sheep shearing, pet the farm animals, tour the gorgeous homesteads gardens and more.
On the trip back to Queenstown we headed indoors as it had started to rain. It was very warm inside due to the open viewing deck of the engines below. There was a café selling refreshments of hot food, hot drinks and alcohol. At the front of the ship there was a gathering around a piano where quite a crowd were enjoying an ‘old time’ sing-along.
The trip back gave us a photo opportunity to get some great shots of Queenstown.
Duration .… ( 1hour 40 min)
Schedule …. (Oct – April) 10am, 12pm, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm, 8pm.
…. (May-Sept) 12pm, 2pm, 4pm.
Price ….. ( (NZ)$36 adult, $15 child)
Walter Peak Farm Tours
Duration …. ( 3 hours 35 min)
Price …. ( (NZ)$55 adult, $15 child )
Walter Peak Horse Trek
Duration …. (40 minute trek)
Price …. ((NZ)$92 adult, $50 child)
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The next day dawned with blue skies and beaming sunshine so we rang to see if the Shotover Jet was running to schedule. We were relieved to hear the 10am was going ahead so we got organized and headed down town to the meeting place at The Station.
We were led to the bus that was waiting to take us to the river about a 15 minute drive away. We were delivered right to the river and were each given waterproof jackets and life jackets. As we were getting ready a couple of jet boats came flying past doing 360’s. This put an older couple right off and they decided they didn’t want to do the ride after all.
There are four jet boats working the river so the turnover is very fast, no mucking around at all. We jumped aboard, the driver counted heads and then we were off. The river was still running high but it was safe. Because of the high waters the ride wasn’t as hair-raising as it could have been because they had to keep the speed down due to bouncing, a bit of a pity really. Never mind, the driver made the most of twisting through the narrow rock walls of the gorge, threatening to slam the boat into the rock walls as we flew on past, throwing 360’s along the way. It was great fun but COLD.
The ride lasted for 30 minutes and the driver would pull up from time to time to give us a brief narration of points of interest.
After the ride we had a coffee at the café before catching the bus back to town.
Price …. ((NZ)$89 adult, $49 child)
There are loads of other companies offering jet boat rides but the Shotover is the only one that does this particular stretch of the river. The Dart River Jet Boat looked good as well as the Twin River Tour but there are loads to choose from.
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After getting back to town we decided to catch the Arrowtown Express bus to the nearby township of Arrowtown.
This trip cost (NZ)$18 return adult ( $10 return child ) and covers a loop road giving you a bit of a tour as well. The driver gave us a narration along the way pointing out the things of interest and a few historic facts as well.
It took about 25 minutes to get to the tiny township of Arrowtown. This town was like a step back in time after the hustle and bustle of Queenstown.
The old town was founded by goldminers and is rich in the history of those early days of the Otago Gold Miners.
The main street has maintained the feel of the bygone era and is full of small, quaint historic buildings.
A popular feature of Arrowtown are the deciduous trees that surround the township and smother the surrounding towering hillsides. Over the autumn period these trees put on the most dazzling display of colour which brings crowds of visitors to the small town.
On our visit the trees were lush and green with only a touch of yellowing on the occasional tree.
After having lunch at one of the numerous cafes and restaurants we wandered down to the riverside to visit the historic Chinese Mining Settlement.
This area recounts and preserves the story of the Chinese that came to New Zealand in the days of the Gold Rush and lived a stark and meagre life in tiny and crude dwellings along the river side.
They were not accepted into the mainstream society and lived in communities where they kept to themselves and worked areas that other miners had given up as spent of gold.
A few of the original huts have been reconstructed by the Historic Places Trust and the original General Store has been renovated giving an interesting glimpse into the lives these people lived all those years ago.
This short history lesson was a very sobering experience.
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We wandered back up to the township and browsed the shops while we waited for the bus to take us back to Queenstown.
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It was late afternoon on our last day and the weather was perfect so we just had to do the one thing every visitor to town HAS to do ... take the gondola up to the Skyline Lookout.
We walked there from our motel and it was a pretty good walk up the hill, not hard by any means and definitely a walkable distance from town.
There is a mini golf complex nearby as well as a Kiwi and Wildlife House. We didn't visit either but the Kiwi House seemed to be a very popular attraction.
To get to the Skyline Lookout you could hike up the hill but you will change your mind the minute you see how far up it is. You could get a helicopter ride up if you have money to burn or you could do what thousands of others do every day ... take the gondola to the top.
Some people are fearful of the gondola ride but I tell you, if I can do it ... so can you.
I made a point of sitting facing up the hill of course, I didn't want to freak myself out too much but after a little while I felt comfortable enough to turn around and enjoy the amazing views below me.
As we came near the bungy jumping platform a jumper leapt off screaming as he shot past our gondola. It gave us a great photo opportunity as he flew past us!!
Once at the top head straight to the Outdoor Viewing Deck. The views are spectacular and the weather was perfect for us. The late afternoon sun was striking The Remarkables, Lake Wakatipu was the most amazing shade of blue and from this vantage point you could see for miles in every direction.
The Skyline Bungy Tower was just below us and we could watch the jumpers and hear their whoops of fear / exhilaration as they took the leap. What makes this jump so special is the fact that it is located so high above the town. At 400 meters up, the leap of 47 metres is magnified by the impression of height. Talking to a guy who had just jumped, he said that of the three jumps he had done around Queenstown, this one rated as the scariest.
Another guy came over full of nerves, he had won a prize for a free jump and was in the nervous build-up process. He was bemoaning the fact that he had gone to a bar for a quiet beer and ended up winning a free bungy jump, how unlucky can you get!
Another option is the Ledge Swing but this was not operating the day we visited.
For a more gentle thrill you can take a few Luge Rides down either the Scenic Track or the Advanced track for a few more thrills.
If this is not enough you can do Tandem Paragliding from the summit. Hubby was quite keen but the $185 price tag put him off. It didn't really appeal to me with my fear of heights but it really did look like an exciting thing to do.
If all this excitement is not for you, head to the restaurant or Cafe and relax while enjoying the magnificent views. There is the obligatory gift shop as well if a bit of retail therapy is needed to calm the nerves.
Heading back down the hill I was brave enough to sit facing forward and enjoyed the great view below.
Skyline Complex
Gondola
Price - (NZ)$17 adult, $7 child, family pass $36 (2 adults, 3 children)
Combos are available for Luge Rides and Lunch / Dinner at the Restaurant.
Gondola and 5 Luge Rides
Price - (NZ)$32 adult, 24 child, family pass $52 (2 adults , 3 children) Family Pass is good for Gondola and 1
Luge Ride each.
Ledge Bungy
Price includes gondola ride and free t-shirt - (NZ)$ 130 adult, $89 child.
~ Minimum age limit 10 years.
~ Minimun weight limit 35 kgs.
~ Maximum weight limit 130 kgs.
Ledge Sky Swing
Price - (NZ)$85 adult, $65 child
Price includes gondola ride.
~ Minimum age limit 10 years.
~ Minimum weight limit 35 kgs.
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The next day we were heading home on a 10am flight. The Shuttle bus picked us up bang on 9am and delivered us at the airport with plenty of time to spare.
On the flight home we did a stopover in Christchurch so we got some more great views of the Southern Alps and the Canterbury Plains.
We flew directly over Wellington City and straight over Mount Ruapehu in the middle of the North Island. This was just as good as a chartered Scenic Flight and the views were spectacular once more.
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So ended our short holiday down south. A few days is no where near enough to spend down there so if you are planning to visit Queenstown ,try to spend about 1 week here to get the full impact of the region.
Bear in mind that a lot of the activities are of an Extreme nature so don't take anything lightly. Yesterday an Australian tourist died on the Shotover Rafting Trip.
This tragedy serves as a warning to stay within your limitations and only take on what you think you can handle.
Have a good and safe time ~
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
hollynz
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Member: Christine
Location: New Zealand
Reviews written: 142
Trusted by: 190 members
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~ In memory of Barbara ~
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