THE MENU
Three-quarters of the four page menu is a small-type listing of more than 400 Italian wines, which vary widely in price (some as low as $22-28 per bottle to $475 for a 1997 E Cennatoio (12L). Vino Spumante, Vino Bianco, Vino Rosato and Vini Dolci are categorized into regions, with Piemonte and Toscano having the most selections. Piemontese Barolos (some of the finest IMHO) range from $59 for a 1997 Burlotto Cannubi to $275 for a 1995 G. Sordo (3L). Three Spumantes, six Biancos, eleven Rosatos and four Dolcis are available by the glass. Look for some of Otto co-owner Joe Bastianich’s family wines under the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region.

Food is divided into four major sections:
Antipasti
- Vegetables ($4) which come in small portions (three-quarters of a cup or so) are full of flavor and served cold. Some side dishes such as olives, beans “al fiasco,” sweet and sour onions and pickled mushrooms can be tasty additional pizza toppings. The Eggplant Caponatina was a bit of a disappointment, because it was too sweet, but the acorn squash custard, which was more of a mousse, was by far my favorite of the vegetables.
- Meat ($8/ $21 grande) can also be added to your pizza, if you can keep yourself from eating it long enough for the pizza to arrive. Proscuitto di Parma, Testa, Fennel Salami, Lonza and Coppa are available.
- Fish ($8/ $21 grande) choices are swordfish, octopus, anchovies, scungilli and mussels.
- Salad ($8) offerings are celery root & citrus, and beet, horseradish & walnut, among other Italian standards such as caprese and tricolore.

Pizza
The pizza is good, not great, but good. The crust is not as thin as lavash, as I have seen it compared to, though in looking around, I saw other crusts which looked more delicate than the dense, chewy and somewhat dry crust of my otherwise delicious, if not fully topped, Funghi & Taleggio ($12). I did add on some of the marinated artichoke hearts I ordered as a side, which was a delicious combination. The crust on my husband’s Sabato Pizze Del Giorno ($13) was similar to mine, though the amount of melt-in-your-mouth prosciutto topping left one wanting more. At approximately 10” in diameter and being light on toppings, the pizzas are not terribly filling.

Other notable specialty pizzas include Otto Lardo ($13), Tomato, Raw Fennel & Bottarga ($13), Potato, Anchovy & Ricotta ($11) and Vongole (clams, chiles & garlic - $14). Some of the Classica pizzas are Bianco (oil & sea salt - $7), Margherita ($10), Quattro Fromaggi ($14) and Pepperoni ($11). The one pizza I expected to see, but unfortunately did not, is Batali’s sour cherry and mascarpone pizza referred to by Lynne Kearney on the Food Network’s Cooking 101.

Specials
There is a different Bruschetta ($6), Pizze ($13) and Frito ($8) for each day of the week, with the Pizzes being named after the seven children of the owners. I plan on visiting Otto at some point on Lunedi (Monday) for the eggplant, chili & mint Bruschetta Del Giorno and Giovedi (Thursday) for the Gnocco Fritto (fried gnocci).

Formaggi and Gelato
Formaggi (cheese selections) are $4 each and have such mouth-watering offerings as Gorgonzola Dolce with Amarene Cherries, and Pecorino with Chestnut Honey. No Batali menu would be complete without a Coach Farm cheese (he married into the family), and this one is served with tomato jam. Gelato flavors are interesting and can be combined (two $7, three $10) and brioche is available for an additional $3. I actually have no idea what Affogato and Gianduja Calda are, but they are $8 each.

SERVICE
The service was slow, and I overheard other diners saying the same. This is easily forgiven for two reasons, as long as it’s temporary. First, the restaurant is new, and it takes a while for rhythms to be established. More importantly, however, the staff makes up for it with the level of knowledge they possess. To give an example, at the table next to mine, someone asked “What is lonza?” At most other restaurants at this price point, one expects to get “It’s like prosciutto” with a possible explanation that it is pork loin. However, the lucky diners got a full explanation of the curing process and how it differed in substance and in duration, in addition to the basic explanation. That type of expertise makes up for initial slowness in my book.

THE SPACE
By any standards, the Otto is a good-sized restaurant, but given the location and price point, it’s absolutely enormous. As long as the crowds keep coming, the tables turn over quickly, and a good percentage of diners toss back plenty of vino, the economics will justify its spacious existence, as is the case with all restaurants. Given the Empire’s buying power, assumedly discount delivery charges (one would guess that so many restaurants in such a close area would yield economies), investment in wine (Batali and Bastianich are part-owners of Italian Wine Merchants) and ability to pre-natally bestow its reputation on one of its own, Otto already has a distinct advantage over nearly all of its competition.

Upon entry, you will find yourself on the far edge of a large room / waiting area with bar-height white marble-topped, standing-room-only tables and a dark wood, large bar. Since the restaurant takes no reservations, you must leave your name at the desk in front of you and you’ll be handed a paper ticket with the name of a place on it. When your place is written on the chalkboard, it’s your turn for a table. Thankfully, you don’t have to listen for a host or hostess yelling and butchering your name over the roar at the bar.

As you enter the dining areas, you’ll hear the piped-in opera music (if you couldn’t already hear it while waiting) and the deep, warm, fall tones of the bar will be seen everywhere, from titian table tops and warm, yellow lampshade sconces, to the auburn-chestnut walls and dark wood accents. Areas of exposed brick lend casualness to the atmosphere that is further confirmed by the wait staff’s white oxford button-downs and denim jeans. Under-dressing at Otto seems not to be a problem. Overhead halogens add some additional brightness to the dark-hued rooms. There are several large tables (many of the 4-tops expand) and the dining room seems fairly kid-friendly, making Otto good for families and small parties (if they don’t mind the wait and can hold their liquids – see next paragraph).

The bathroom was the most surprising thing about the space. I visited only the ladies’ room and was surprised to find a mere two stalls and one pedestal sink with no waiting space whatsoever. For a 150-seat restaurant with a terrific wine list and large staff and bar area, this seemed hardly adequate. I was also dismayed to find the restroom looking a little dirty, with grime mucking up the plain white grout of the sink (not a good sign, especially since I was there 17 days after its opening). I must mention, however, that in the one good peek I got at the kitchen, it looked absolutely spotless.

IN CONCLUSION
Even though I was not terribly impressed by the food, I did think it was solidly good and I would definitely go back. However, I would most likely only return for snacks, as opposed to expecting a full dinner, and I would attempt to go at an off-time. Not that Otto seems to have a slow time exactly, but Saturdays and Sundays from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. seem to be less crowded than other times during this hectic opening period.

Otto is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. til 11:30 p.m.
Please see my reviews of Batali & Bastianich’s Babbo and Lupa here on Epinions!

NOTES
(1) See http://www.amex.com/atamex/news/events/br_MarioB_010803.htm for a picture.


Recommended:
Yes

Kid Friendliness: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Go at an off-time (not only to reduce your wait to get a table, but to reduce your wait for the bathroom) and try the Lardo. So what if it's just pork fat!
Best Suited For: Kids and Families