The Champagne Region, For A Taste Of The Bubbly, This Is Where To Go !
Written: Aug 30 '02 (Updated Aug 21 '06)
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Pros: The region is easy to get to from Paris, 1 1/2 hours by train.
Cons: none, except I'm not there!
The Bottom Line: Wonderful experience I would recommend to all who love a taste of the bubbly and the sense of history
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| ifif1938's Full Review: Champagne Region |
On our last visit to Paris we had planned on staying in the city for the 9 days we were to be there but when an incredible deal surfaced at one of the most famous and desired Chateaux in the Champagne Region, Boyer Les Crayeres, which is noted as having one of the finest restaurants in all of France, we couldn’t resist booking a night, along with making a dinner reservation, even though we had heard the meal might cost more than the room!
We decided not to take a car but instead made our way to Reims by taking a short train ride, about 1 1/2 hours, from the Gare de L'Est station to that most important Champagne city, a place so important to the champagne industry their tap water practically fizzes.
Reims, a city kown for both it's Champagne and its history, dating back before the monk Dom Perignon firgured out that double fermentation method which resulted in the now famous bubbley drink
The entire Region, a small wine district dedicated to that effervescent drink associated with joyous occasions and celebrations.. The name Champagne can only be used on wines produced in this regions vineyards...visiters come from all over the world the two most renowned cities, Reims and Eperney, to taste and savour these most sought after and popular drink.
Since we were staying in Reims we concentrated on the cellars in the surrounding vineyards of that town and one in particular, the Pommery Cellars, situated just a short walk from the Chateau..Usually you have to make an appointment for the tour and pay a small fee but our gracious hosts at Les Crayeres had an understanding with them and offered us free admission and immediate access to the cellars upon our arrival..
Crayeres means Chalk in French and without that dry vast natural commodity beneath the soil there wouldn't be those special conditions needed for the grapes to produce the wines that are just perfect for Champagne.
The Romans discovered this vast cake of chalk that runs beneath the surface of this entire region...Those chalk caves are every bit as spectacular as is the product they produce.
The Pommery cellars are known throughout France and the entire world as one of the finest Champagne producing cellars in France. Pommery has the reputation for elegance and the finest Champagne which it produces and has been in business since 1840 when the driving force behind it’s success, Jeanne Alexandrine Louise Melin married Alexandre Pommery and became Madame Pommery. After his death, she led the business into the huge success that it still is today.
In 1868 Madame Pommery began what would turn out to be the largest construction site of the century in Reims when she had 120 chalk pits, linked together into miles and miles of high vaulted, arched galleries…Each gallery was named after a city where Pommery had a strong commercial foothold since at least 3/4 of Pommery’s production is exported..You can imagine my surprise when I spotted one gallery called Miami! In every direction you look, as the special techniques of Champagne making, storing, and rotating are pointed out, you see the names of famous cities carved in the chalk of each gallery for storage and the aging process. And don't forget to look up at the magnificent bas reliefs the Madam had commissioned for that most unusual gallery along with a portraint of herself...I guess she was a bit vain but it certainly makes for an interesting tour.
In these dark and shadowy caves lie the wines of Champagne while the birth of each bottle begins, starting with the fermentation process. The bottles lie on their sides on wooden slats, while the precious bubbles begin to form...Each bottle needs to be turned on a regular basis and that is done on a precise and timely schedule.
We had climbed down a very very long flight of stairs which wasn't difficult at all but climbing back up, well, that was a different story all together. But, when we finally got back to the beautiful and inviting visiter center, I was certainly ready for a cool glass of that most coveted bubbley, than again I had been ready from the moment we walked in the place!
There were comfortable sofas and sitting areas waiting for guests throughout large room to relax after the climb back up those old stone stairs and it was a pleasure just sitting there while sipping our champagne…
During the tastings, and they were very generous, they tempt you to bring some of those bottles home with you by offering them at a substantially lower price and one particular variety is only available on the premises...Of course that was the one we decided to bring home for ourselves and as gifts.
Pommery is situated on some 741 acres along with it's beautiful buildings and chateaux that comprise the property...the biggest vineyard in the Champagne region. In all that most famous region, there are only 30,000 acres of vineyards that produce the 3 types of grapes that can fermented to produce that very special product known as Champagne...It is only this region that supplies this fantastic sparkling wine to all the world.
But there really is more to see and do in Reims as well as the other famous city of Eperney..Since we didn't have a car we stayed in Reims, except for a short bus ride we took to look at the beautiful surrounding countryside...
Reims has had it's share of famous visiters too...Joanne of Arc came to attend the coronation of Charles VII, seems fitting since she was responsible for his succession to the throne which was held at th Cathedrale Notre Dame, also was the site of the crowning of every King thereafter..@5 of them, their likenesses carved in stone on the doors leading into the Cathedrale.
We visited that most beautiful cathedral to gawk at these remarkable stained glass windows, and we were lucky that the gloomy rain filled day cleared up which allowed streams of sunlight to shine though.. It truly was a glorious sight. We then visited the Museum de Surrender another fascinating peek into history, only this one a more recent look at the World in France when the Germans admitted defeat to the allies....During the war Reims was badly damaged but the art work and the the stained glass windews survived when they were taken down and hidden in a nearby Abbey.
The shopping was unigue as well, since many of the gift shops offered items of fine guality, some famous items created in other cities of France, Limoge, Lalique and Gein at much lower prices than you would find stateside. It was a shoppers paradise for those who collect these fine china items and could figure out how to get them home.
All in all we truly enjoyed our short visit the Reims in the Champagne region...The diversity of things to see and places to visit was outstanding in such a small city...I only hope one day to go back to sit back, sip my champagne and let my imagination take over as to the importance of history of the region and to the world of afficiandos of that most coveted bubbley.
A Votre Sante, To Your Health
Happy And Safe Travels
Recommended:
Yes
Best Time to Travel Here: Sep - Nov
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