Where the Chefs Dine....Bistro Francais, Georgetown, Washington, D.C.
Written: May 26 '02 (Updated May 26 '02)
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Pros: Brassy French bistro open late--a much better alternative to Au Pied de Cochon
Cons: Often crowded, you may well have to wait in line, menu doesn't change much
The Bottom Line: A reliably good place that is open very late. This is where late diners go for good cooking after hours.
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| tombarnes's Full Review: Bistro Francais |
For a late night meal in Georgetown, there are few alternatives to the classic Bistro Francais on busy M Street, Georgetown's main drag, full of student bars, restaurants and luxury shops, all merrily jumbled together. If you read my review of Au Pied de Cochon, you will know to avoid the place if you want to keep your digestive system intact. An alternative is this dependably good, almost stylish, bistro.
Location
Just a few steps away from the expensive shops at Georgetown Park, the Bistro Francais is easily spotted, with its red, white and blue canopy. You may often see a line at the door, but usually later in the evening. It has long been known as a late night kind of place.
The Room
The atmosphere is almost classic bistro style, simple and straightforward, without much pretense. The paneling is dark, the linen is starched white and there is little starch to the rest of the place. It is as comfortable and frayed as many a Parisian bistro or brasserie.
First Course
Start off with their excellent escargots. These are served on a ramekin and come sizzling with butter, garlic and loads of calories. These little calorie-bombs are worth every extra gram off of your diet! Slightly chewy, these snails are nonetheless packed with flavor. The butter and garlic also do not overwhelm the earthy taste of the snails. A well balanced presentation.
Other options include the similar Moules Nicoise, mussels baked with butter garlic, tomato and black olives. The Coeurs de Palmier are drowning in their vainaigrette, but are otherwise appropriately fresh and good. They are not the limp, wan little things one often sees. Finally, the Avocat Farci Bistro is a generous serving of crabmeat in half of a large avocado. The chefs, bless them, do not try to sneak in that vile Surimi instead of crabmeat here (at just $4.50, one would rightly be suspicious).
Salads
At lunch, heavier salads are offered as an alternative to a heavier repast. The steak and chicken Caesar salads are good, but rather ordinary. Instead, you might try the St. Giles salad with fresh spinach, potato, onion, tuna and tomato. I know, it sounds vaguely disgusting, but it is not bad at all. I like the Tropiques salad too. hearts of palm, avocado and artichoke make up this simple, but pleasing salad.
Soup
Not one of their strongest suits, the soups are good nonetheless. The traditional Soupe a l'Oignon comes with the usual mausolaeum of cheese on top, but the broth is rich and pleasing inside, and there are plenty of onions. Scalding broth with a couple of onion slices floating around, it is not. The Soup de Poisson Gratinee is similarly entombed, but the large chunks of fish and the steaming, flavorful broth bring it to life again.
Be sure to ask what their soup of the day might be. They do have some good ones here, particularly some of the tomato soups.
Main Course
If you want fish, they do a fairly nice job with it here, though it is best to remember that this is a bistro, and not Kinkead's. That said, the Thon Marine au Poivre Vert can be quite good. The tuna is served pink, if you ask for it that way, and arrives with a crackling sauce of green pepppercorns. Another dish worth mentioning might be the Coquilles St. Jacques au Gingembre et Poivrons Rouges, or scallops with ginger along with a red pimento sauce. At just $17.95, this is a bargain.
Classic bistro dishes like Poulet Bistro are not overlooked here. This half chicken is perfectly done to a light amber and glistens with the tarragon sauce they bring along with it. The sauce is perfect with the French fries. While the fries are good here, I like them a bit more crisp than they usually come here.
The Coq au Vin de Bourgogne is good, but this classic is drowning in its red wine sauce. The sauce does enliven the boiled potatoes.
Often the best things to have here are the honest meat dishes like the Entrecote Marchand de Vin a la Moelle a Black Angus steak served with a red wine and bone marrow sauce. For the squeamish, the sauce au poivre may be substituted.
The Medallion de Veau aux Champignons is what one might expect, except that the sauce can sometimes seem like a lava flow. The rich mixture of morels, porcini and (a certain kind of mushroom the filter won't let me mention--this is ridiculous!) mushrooms is worth any accompanying cohesion as a result of too much cream.
For those who do not wish to indulge so heavily, particularly at night, a selection of classic French sandwiches is offered.
Dessert
Usually, I do not have dessert here, having only coffee instead. You may want to make an exception for their pastry cart. The desserts range from rich tarts to lighter-than-air Napoleons, but you will nearly always find something attractive on their dessert cart.
The Creme Caramel is good, but on the bland side. The Peche Melba was a faithful rendition, except that I harbor suspicions about the peached having come from a can......
Wine
The wine list is sensible. Though there are a few ridiculously expensive bottles on the list, for the odd big spender (this is Georgetown!), most bottles are under $40.00 and are largely drinkable.
They have a reasonably good selection of grappa, eau de vie and other after dinner drinks.
Service
The service is usually good, but the place can get very crowded, and you may have some interminable waits. What you will not find, however, are untrained staff members. It is not by accident that this is a favorite place for noted Washington chefs to relax after work.
Parking, Reservations Etc.
This is Georgetown. park anywhere you can find a space, or even better, leave your car behind! Parking in Georgetown is a nightmare!
The staff take a generally good attitude about reservations, though you may still have to wait, no matter what time your reservation says.
There is no dress code, although you would feel best in casual, smart clothing.
Most major credit cards, except the Discover card are accepted here.
Hours
Sunday through Thursday, the bistro is open 11:00 AM until 3:00 AM. On Fridays and Saturdays, it stays open until 4:00 AM. The brunch on Sunday is $15.95, and may be a good bargain.
Bistro Francais
3124-28 M Street
Washington, D.C. 20007
Tel. 202-338-3830
Recommended:
Yes
Kid Friendliness: Yes Vegetarian Friendly: Yes
Notes, Tips or Menu Recommendations Early bird specials are worth going early for Best Suited For: Friends
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Epinions.com ID: tombarnes
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Member: Thomas Barnes
Location: Fort Lauderdale & Washington, DC
Reviews written: 684
Trusted by: 441 members
About Me: With Barbara in Miami, 2004
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